HOW NOT TO KNOW A THAI

By the time you read this article the writer will be travelling about the northern parts of Thailand, purely as a recreational tourist, but visiting some of the more isolated Buddhist monasteries and renewing acquaintance with some of the monks.

Most Buddhist males in Thailand spend from one week to several months in a monastery, generally as a novice or by taking lower ordination as a saminaran monk. Those who do not are regarded as unsuitable marriage partners as they have not learned to take right control of their minds and emotions. Generally the males enter the monastery as boys or very young men, and their taking of the robes brings great honour to their families.

The Thai people are more genuinely friendly to foreigners than are other Eastern people because they have never been colonised by European power; thanks to the outstanding statesmanship of King Mongkut who was himself a Buddhist monk for many years before ascending the throne. Westerners may be surprised to find that the parody of this kind, skilful and intelligent man, as represented in the film "Anna and the King of Siam", is deeply resented by educated Thais.

In the East it is generally the Westerner who is considered, if not actually barbarian, at least rather gross. Here are a few points that anyone planning a visit to Thailand should know:

1. The Buddhist monks and the King are to be treated with the utmost respect. This respect is carried over the statues of the Buddha and photographs of the Royal family, especially H.M King Bhumibol. Treat such objects with disrespect and you could easily find yourself in a gaol.

2. Do not enter any temple, whether Buddhist, Muslim or Hindu, in shorts and without first removing your shoes or sandals.

3. Do not point your feet at anyone in front of you, or at statues of the Buddha. Westerners have to be particularly careful when they sit on the floor and lean back against a wall.

4. Do not pat or playfully pull the hair of a Thai child, let alone an adult. It is considered grossly offensive. The top of the head is considered to be the most spiritual part of the body.

5. No woman, or group of women, should approach a monk unless he is, or you are, accompanied by a male 'chaperone'. A monk may not talk in private with a woman without a chaperone. He must not only be impeccable, but must be seen to be impeccable. Because of this, a woman must never make physical contact with a monk, nor may she hand him anything directly. He has an alms bowl, or uses a 'receiving cloth', for such occasions. These rules do not apply to men.

Those are the five main points regarding truly offensive behaviour. There is one more point of behaviour that should be understood. Do not, in any circumstances show anger. No matter how frustrated and annoyed you feel, do not display your anger. You will lose such 'face' among the Thais that they will be mortified for YOU. It is very definitely uncool to lose control.

All the rest is a matter of commonsense and a little sensitivity. These customs have existed for well over a thousand years so, even if you don't like them, allow them to be.

© David Hurst 1995
Permisssion is granted to publish this text for the common good...

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