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LEGENDARY SURFERS
PAUL STRAUCH
"My first big-wave board was made by Bob Shepard, a beautiful balsa
gun," recalled Strauch. "It was 10'4" and I was 14, I think. I
remember going out to Sunset for the very first time on it. We were so
limited. It was like riding a plank or a sled that you had limited
control on. The key was to use that inertia to your advantage. Most of
the guys would take off, angle it, and then lose control. I found the
most effective way to ride those boards at the time was not to angle,
but to go straight down and turn. If you had a narrow enough tail, you
could come off of the bottom and make a long section."
"I remember seeing him at Sunset," recalled Gerry Lopez of Strauch,
"fading so that he was almost going left, lying down all the way to the
bottom and then just doing this huge bottom turn, and walking up. And
this was on a terrible, heavy plank."
"A lot of people don't know that Paul Strauch was actually a goofy
foot," Barry Kaniaupuni remembered. "In fact, he won the Makaha event
one year in big surf as a goofy foot. He was the best surfer in the
world. Nobody else was even close· And his bottom turn was just the
most radical. The most radical! He had a balsa-redwood that he flipped
around like it weighed ten pounds. I mean, he was the first to go down
and really crank a turn, and the way he'd accelerate! He made that
thing talk, play music."
"Did you discover that type of turn on your own, or had you seen anyone
else do it?" Chris Ahrens asked Strauch.
"No, I had never seen anyone to the point of going straight down and
then returning. You went real fast, increasing speed like a skier.
Later on, Barry Kaniaupuni would do that very well. He was kind of
forced into that position because he was riding such narrow boards.
That became an effective way to ride larger surf."
"He had more style than anyone in any size surf, and he could ride
anything," recalled Gerry Lopez who was just starting out at the time.
"When the surf was big, he really stood out. Takayama, Hemmings,
Hynson, Butch; they were all really great surfers. But Paul Strauch was
on a whole different level from any of them. He was on a level with
Phil Edwards. Actually I'd say, from what I saw, he was better than
Phil Edwards. No question. Just the best guy everywhere he went.
Left, right, big waves, small waves. All of it!"
Strauch said that, as a kid, he surfed "So much so that my father used
to remind me that long before he came onto this planet there were waves,
and throughout my lifetime there would always be waves, and that there
was a time and a place for everything. (laughter)"
You know how it is, as surfers, we never want to miss a good swell.
"Oh God, yeah," Strauch said. "I used to take pepper, shove it up my
nose, and then go to the school infirmary. It took about six minutes to
get the full effect. By then my eyes had reddened and swollen up. It
looked like I had this horrible contagious disease. The nurse would say
'We're calling home.' I would always get them to realize that there was
nobody there, and tell them that I would go straight home. (laughter)
Then I would get on the bus, and take a detour, straight to the beach.
(laughter)"
"As a sophomore at Punaho High Scool," Strauch recalled of a memorable
time away from school, "I went to Maui for Christmas vacation with Jan
Lee, Harlan Cadeena, Michael Tongg, Eric Romanchak and two other
friends. We drove to the end of this dirt road, past these pineapple
fields to a place we had just heard of called Honolua Bay. It was like
five feet to 10 feet. I still have the eight millimeter film of it.
"Jan Lee had lost his board one night, and it had gone into the cave.
When we paddled out, a little piece of his board, about six inches of
it, floated out. (Laughter) He didn't want to go in to get the rest of
the board, the cave had this ominous look to it, and we didn't know how
deep it was. The waves were so nice there. Perfect, and is was just
us."
Paul Strauch - Changing Direction Through Weight Displacement
Asked about the contributing factors to his style, Strauch responded,
"I'd have to say that there were several surfers, but it wasn't until
the late '50s that I was able to witness Phil Edwards and Dewey Weber
surfing, when they came over to Hawaii with Bud Browne in 1958. They
had been here before that, but I never had a chance to see them until
then. I was really impressed, particularly with Dewey Weber. I mean,
Phil had a tremendous grace, and it was amazing how he could ride the
tail of the board, and control it so well, and then use the whole board.
"Dewey had a lot more hand motion and upper torso motion, swivel of the
hips and things. There were a couple of Hawaiian surfers who surfed
somewhat similar (to Weber) but they were more subtle. A guy named
Squirly Carvalho was very good at that type of surfing."
"Without a doubt," Strauch continued, "Phil Edwards and Dewey Weber"
were the best surfers of his era, as far as he was concerned. "They
were so far ahead of everybody else, so much finesse. My style is
patterned after that, to be able to get the board to change directions
through weight displacement. I used to watch Phil going left at
Haleiwa. He'd take off and angle to the right, and as he was about
three quarters of the way down the wave, he'd slid the board out, walk
toward the tail, with his foot on the left rail. It acted like a
fulcrum. He'd pivot, and turn, and as he swung the board around on its
inside edge, he'd follow it, walking forward. The board would then
level off and he'd go to the nose. He'd move off the nose, and then
sort of kick the board out, and come back with another bottom turn. It
was awesome to me."
"At Makaha," continued Strauch, "Dewey would turn the tailblock with
his arms up over his head, and his weight back. He'd do these real
heavy swivel turns using lots of hip and upper torso movement. The
board had a delayed reaction to his upper torso. His body was always
ahead of his board. Then he'd run up to the nose and do a nose stall.
He had a funny way of looking away from the wave as he rode up; he never
looked straight ahead. Really stylish maneuvers from Dewey, and the
bottom maneuvers from Phil."
"And of course George Downing," Stauch added. "I don't think that
anybody could surf big Makaha or Laniakea as well as George. He took me
out to Laniakea several times when I was younger. Once it was just
solid whitewater, right through the break. He'd say, 'Let's go,' and
I'd say, 'There's no way we're going to get out.' It was breaking so
far out, you could look out and see Himalayas breaking, massive. We
went right through the break in the rip. It was really spooky out
there, whitewater all over. You're not sure if you're in an impact
area, there was solid whitewater, and George sits up and says, 'Okay,
we're in the lineup.' I said, 'What the hell are you talking about?'
He said, 'Look outside.' It was just crashing out there, and he says,
'No, it will be fine here, and this is where we can catch it.' Sure
enough, the whitewater would stop maybe 20 yards outside of us, and
reform right where we were, and there was maybe a 50 yard space where we
could take off. You'd catch one wave, ride it, and then you'd have to
repeat the process again. He was so cool. He passed on all these
things to me when I was young, and I never forgot them. You have to
know these things. There's no other way to work through an afternoon of
riding big waves without just getting hammered."
LEGENDARY SURFERS
©1996-99 by Malcolm Gault-Williams. All Rights Reserved.
http://www.legendarysurfers.com
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