READERS COMMENTS
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 17:42:00 -0500 (EST)
Full Name: Jerry Mainardi
Organisation: Lighthouse SPG
E-mail: jerry@lighthousespg.com
Comments: Great site, guys. A couple of questions. I've
recently tried my hand a building a couple of boards for my kids in the
garage of my house in Pennsylvania. Two Questions. My second board is a
7'9" pintail, single fin. I have already gloss coated both sides. Now
I'm ready to install the leash plug and the fin box. I'm guessing that
the small "wings" at both ends and on both sides of the fin box are to set
the box on the surface of the belly as the resin drys. Then, when the
resin has hardened I should take my power sander and sand down the
protruding 1/8inch (approx.) of the fin box until it is flush with the
belly. Is this right?? Also, if I do this, should I use 300 grit wet/dry
sandpaper, so I don't overly skuff the gloss coat? And should I use the
power sander and WET the board before sanding with 300 and then 800 grit
paper to smooth out the finish and take the pin holes out of the final
coat? I have not been able to find any info on the proper procedu!
re for sanding down and bringing up the luster, like you would find on a
gloss coated long board. Any help you can give me on this would be
greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Jerry Mainardi
Ed:
Hi Jerry,
Oops, you should put the fin box in after you have glassed your board and
before you gloss your surfboard. Let's see, if you tape off a section say
about 4" outside the length/width of the potential box area we might be
able to rescue it. Now sand all the gloss coat back off in that area only.
I don't know what brand box you are using but the tabs are to prevent your
box 'falling in' too deep ,so leave them there until you sand your board.
However if you cut the hole just the right depth you won't need that
safeguard. Fitting a box is a major and important job. Do you have a router
and jig? If not it may be wise to have shop fit it for you. But yes, you
just sand off the excess when you have fitted the box with a slow catalyst
mix of laminating resin and a little chopped glass. Don't forget to fit a
fin in the box first when you are setting it, so you can sight that the box
is perpendicular to the board. Tape off any spare gaps in the box, so resin
doesn't tumble in also. When you box is set you can sand it flush and
regloss that little area around it.
Polishing a board is a specialised job that some do much better than
others. Ideally you should have a soft backed pad this time (unlike the
hard one used for sanding), and start with ascending grades of wet&dry
paper. Start with 3-400, then change to 600, then finish with 1000-1200.
All the time you are 'sanding' the gloss you should be pouring a little
water on the board to keep it unscrathed. Some pros choose balancing a
running water hose in one hand and sander in the other at the same time.
That takes practice and I don't recommend it for you. Just dripping water
from a bucket while you are wet and drying should be adequate, and drop a
little soap in the water as well. Polishing compound is then spread and
buffed off ( with another pad this time..) and finally a polish is rubbed
on, left to dry , then polished off ( with a wool pad this time) and voila!
Good luck, although you may wish to try this a few times until it looks
like that new Shop board!
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000
Full Name: Fritzo
Organisation: home
E-mail: fritzfam@wantree.com.au
Comments: Thanks for the opportunity to get some advice. I've
shaped a few boards and am frustrated by my inability to get a good rail
line, nose to tail along the deck. No problem in the flat sections of the
blank but I seem to be left with "fat" spots, particularly where the
rocker increases at the nose, that don't form a nice continuation of the
rail from the middle, thicker, portion of the blank.
Ed:
Hi Fritz,
Shaping a good board takes a lot of practice and I don't know what tools
you use to say if you are doing anything wrong.... However take your time,
select and LOOK at the blank sideways for rocker when you buy it, but don't
necessarily follow it's nose /bottom curve. If you use an electric planer,
don't plane so much. so you can take time to get the feel of where you want
to go. It's not a race remember. Adjust to a shallower cut on your planer
and foil the nose from the front cutting just a few inches from the nose
along the stringer on the first pass, then a couple of inches more over and
above the last pass and so on, until you see some sort of rocker form
taking place, always standing back and sighting your complete rocker shape
from sideways as you shape. Don't blindly plane along the length of your
blank to take foam off. If you have a problem, leave it and return the
next day. You won't be so frustrated and your eye sight will be clearer.
Keep measuring the width as you go, although I personally don't measure
rocker myself ( I choose blanks I am familiar with...). The trick to
shaping a good board is to keep everything in context with no abrupt curve
changes. You'll get it...good luck!
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 02:10:48 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: Dave Bruton
Organisation:
E-mail: DCBruton@hotmail.com
Comments: I am working on a couple of blanks and really wish
to avoid the foam yellowing with UV. I was wondering what paint would be
recommended for the polyurethane foams. Would an Acrylic urathane paint
bond molecularly to the foam. I appreciate the problems with the polyester
mechanical bonding to the foam surface however believe that a thin paint
coating would not disrupt this process significantly. In fact, it may
benefit the foam by resisting water absorption in case of a penetrating
ding. Any thoughts on white paints which may be suitable would be most
greatly appreciated.
Ed:
Hi Dave,
There was a product called Hot Dipit (www.hotdipit.com) that is a powder
that is mixed into the laminating resin to stop foam yellowing. I clicked
their site but got a 404 so I don't know if they are still selling it?
Colour Acrlic laquers can be used on foam for spraying, and some
manufacturers squeege white laminating resin on the foam first ( and let it
dry) before glassing a board. That makes a noticeable difference towards a
white board. If you are not sure, test any colour first on a piece of scrap
foam/glass. Good luck!
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000
Full Name: Pani Bundy
Organisation: Seabase Limited
E-mail: pani@seabase.ltd.uk
Comments: Clark Foams online catalog is at
http://www.clarkfoam.com
Ed:
Thanks for that info Pani..
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000
Full Name: Mel Reeves
Organisation:
E-mail: reeves@icr.com.au
Comments: I am trying to identify a plywood surfboard. 10 foot
long,2 foot 3 inches wide with flat edges, Single fin,Brass screws and
bung.No identifying marks.
It was found in Queensland Australia.
Please give me any information or knowledge you have.
Bye Mel
Ed:
Hi Mel,
That sounds like my first surfboard! But I know it's not because a tree
fell on it :-(
There were some boards around during the late '50s just like that with no
labels. Perhaps it was made by Joe Larkin, an early Qld Board manufacturer?
In the early Sports mags(before Surf Mags) there was an article on how to
build your own board and maybe this was a home made one done by a keen
Surfer who found it hard to get a board any other way.....
As a matter of fact we have some of those early wooden surfboard plans at
IS's office and will be including them in an upcoming feature. If you would
like to email me a pic (cbeacham@tig.com.au) I might be able to tell you
more....
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000
Full Name: Chris Narmore
Organisation: Team Spoad
E-mail: chris@teamspoad.com
Comments: BAMBOO SURFBOARDS - I recently checked out
www.bamboosurfboards.com and was very intreagued at what I saw. The
principles of bamboo covered, stringerless surfboards makes a lot of sense
in theory. Do you know anything about the subject. More importantly, do
you know how one would go about extruding a cloth out of bamboo to cover a
board? Is it something the layman could do or would you need specialized,
unaffordable equipment to do so?
Ed:
Yes Chris, interesting stuff and we have an interview with the inventor of
the Bamboo Surfboards concept coming up soon...
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000
Full Name: benjamino
Organisation: mi-own
E-mail: ben0ates@designbridge.com
Comments: making a 7'2" funboard...got the basic shape
nailed, before i put the rails on wondering how thick the board should be
at nose and tail, it's just under 3" in the centre (and curently about 1'
at either end)...
Ed:
My thoughts are that you should look at your shape's side rocker view from
maybe 5-6 feet away. The foil/thickness should be as smooth a transition as
you can manage from your 3" measurement (which sounds pretty thick..?).
Remember, a wave does not care about your ideas on thickness measurements
(and for what it's worth,I never measurement thicknesses out myself) and I
prefer to work with certain Blank thickness/foils to determine the
thickness. The thickness is usually there to float the Surfer, not as a
design aid (in most cases anyway), although a thicker board gets into waves
early and that's good. Water flow must be non disruptive (for want of a
better word) along a gradual reduction in thickness for best results.
Of course, rails/fin position etc. is all important as well.
Hope this helps..
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 11:18:01 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: Lee Phillip Rupp
Organisation:
E-mail: clwaterjunkysmsn.com
Comments: HEY GUYS! FOR THE PAST YEAR NOW, I'VE BEEN VERY
INTERESTED IN GRAPHIC DESGIN; MOSTLY FOR SURFBOARDS, SKATEBOARDS,ETC. I'M
CURIOUS WERE YOU AND OTHER TOP SURF DESIGNING COMPANIES FIND YOUR CREATIVE
WORK (ARTIST). I'M REALLY EXPERIENCE AND INTERESTED IN GETTING INVOLVED
WITH YOUR KIND OF BUSINESS. I WOULD LOVE TO DESIGN FOR A TOP COMPANY OF
YOUR SORT, BUT I DON'T KNOW HOW TO GET STARTED.(?) COULD YOU SEND ME SOME
INFO? THANKS!
Ed:
Lee,
Any graphic designers that I have worked with, have usually come around to
the factory with samples of their work. Surfboards cost a bit of money and
unless you are experienced with Acrylic laquers etc. you won't be hired.
There are some pretty good designers already out there so you have to be
better! Take some photos of your work and leave or mail samples to
Surfshops/Manufacturers in your local area. Once you have a track record it
will probably be easier. Try to be different and concentrate on good (as in
original), simple colour combinations that flatter the surfboard's lines,
rather than elaborate murals.
Good Luck!
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 17:03:02 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: Roger Gongora Orias
Organisation: homemaker
E-mail: cafu_gon16@hotmail.com
Comments: how to make a great shape.
Ed:
Try a lot of boards and note their rocker, rails and fin positions.
Much of the 'design' in Surf Mags is rubbish written by surf journalists
who do not make boards and seek only to accomadate their own advertisers.
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000
Full Name: Maximiliano Nerone
Organisation: maxidog surfboards
E-mail: maxidog@mailcity.com
Comments: Hi, i want to know if there is a product that i can
use after finish sand the boards, i don't like to see any mark from the
cloth or i have to spread again gloss resin? thanks for any information.
Ed:
Glossing a board is the best way to deal with this situation. It makes the
board stronger and you can always sand the gloss coat to make a board
fractionally lighter. There are spray on liquids available offering all
sorts of 'benefits'(don't ask me the names?). I have not used them and I
doubt I would notice the difference if I had.
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 18:31:50 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: george
Organisation: lowry studio
E-mail: susho@earthlink.net
Comments: Thanx for the planer info. What do you know about
acid wash finishes? I want to do a watercolor
effect on the next board. I thought I might be
able to tape off the area where I want the effect
on the deck after the lam coat sets up.Then put
some colors into the resin on the fillcoat and
just bleed it around with the squeegee. Then pull
the tape and do a second fill with clear resin to
fill the areas where the tape was. This would make
some extra work in the sanding but I think it will
smooth out by the time I do the hot coat and buff
out the board. What do you think? I'm a nut for
the craftsmanship and don't mind the extra work to
get a really trick finish. Could you ask around the
glassers for me on this?
This is a great site. Thanks for the really big effort.
Ed:
Hi George,
Sorry for taking so long to answer your question, but this is not a
fulltime job to me and we try to post a batch of letters at the same time
to save ourselves work.
I have never worked with water colours, usually staying with the old
fashioned coloured pigments/resin effect for 'Acid wash' effects. In the
old days, we would call this malted as in Strawberry Malted for red/white
effect, or Mottled for any number of colour combinations. You should put
your colour directly on the foam or under the finish coat. Never put a
colour effect on top of the laminating where you will surely 'burn' it by
sanding. The trick to these effects is minimisation. Use only 2-3 colours
including your base colour. For example if you wish to do a blue effect:
After taping off the design, carefully brush a coat of white finish resin
into the taped off design. (You prepare and catalyse the white and blue
first; dark blue is good for this sort of thing resin mix ). When you have
the white (this is nearly always the best base colour)layer down, take a
thin stick (used ice cream stick is fine) and dip it into the blue colour
sparingly. Too much can ruin the colour scheme and you only have one chance
to get it right, so practice on a piece of old board/foam first. Then
lightly flick/dribble it along the white design. You don't need much. Now
with your 1"-2" brush start from the top of the design and run the brush
through the colours. The resin will create it's own marble effect which
will settle. The more you brush it, the less the effect will show as the
colours will begin to join. This can look great if done on small tape offs.
Hope this helps.
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:30:12 -0400 (EDT)
To: surfer@firehorse.com
From: insidesurfin@firehorse.com
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: George Lowry
Organisation: Lowry Studio
E-mail: susho@earthlink.net
Comments: I am shaping some personal boards and have
completed two longboards which came out real nice
and ride well too. Now I'm trying to find out what
alterations are done to a shaper's planer. Mine is
still stock and works ok but what are the big guys
doing to thier planers to improve them? All info is appreciated.
Ed:
George,
Some Shapers cut their planers short because they feel it makes it easier
to shape the boards. However if you haven't had a lot of experience, I
suggest you just shape the normal planer way and get your boards right as
your first priority.
The main developement in planers for Shaping is the 'Shapers Barrel" which
replaces blades in the planer with a rounded cutting bit.
When we re-open the SURFIN SHOP that will be one of the products we will be
featuring so stay tuned OK?
Full Name: Jack Wolf
Organisation: fun search
E-mail: atroglidite@yahoo.com
Comments: I recently shaped my first board and don't know
where to put tht fins. The board is a 6'6'' if that makes a differences.
So if it's not too much trouble I would greatly appreciate your help.
Thanks, Jack
Ed:
Hi Jack,
Fin position is crucial and if you have a fin that can be adjusted, that is
an advantage.
Without seeing your board/fin outline it's difficult to suggest a position,
but if you take a rule to your local SurfShop/Beach and measure up a 6'6"
board's fin positions you should be OK (for first time practice).
Remember, the further foreward your fin, the tighter the arc in a turn, and
so I guess it depends on what sort of waves you ride as well. There are
many variables and in time I suggest you try them all!
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 18:54:33 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: Julio gonz·lez y Silva
Organisation: GYS
E-mail: gys@engineer.com
Comments: I am a material engineer from samerica.
I want to contact manufactures of fins to review my fin system to develop.
The idea is that the fin can rotate.
Where can I contact these people thanks.
Ed:
Without seeing your Fin System Julio, it's hard to make any suggestions. If
you have already applied for Patent/Design protection you maybe could send
me a jpg or mail pics to :
Chris Beacham
Box 141
NSW AUSTRALIA
and I'll give you my thoughts. If you mean the fins 'swivel' that has
already been done here in Australia. There are many Fin Companies in the
market these days, and quite frankly the System itself is one of the least
important aspects of acceptance. Are you prepared to pay Surfers to use
your fins as well?
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 18:31:45 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: michael briehler
Organisation: rising tide classic surfboards
E-mail: xlcrmb@aol.com
Comments: how do you put on nose and tail blocks?
Ed:
Mike,
In the early days the boards were a lot bigger/thicker and tail/nose blocks
were cut into the finished foam shape and fine shaped with small planers
and sandpaper before the whole board was glassed.
These days I would be inclined to glass a small nose/tail area first with
say a 4oz layer patch, but don't lap it. This will give you something less
fragile to work with. Now measure and pencil out the V into which you must
set the block. You could try a shallow practice cut first as it is
important to get the cut exact on both top and bottom of your shape. When
you feel that it's a tight fit, mix up some white lam resin and after
brushing the block and shaped V, jam it into the V making sure you have
allowed a sideways glance for rocker latitude. It should now be a simple
task of masking taping the block to the board until it sets. The next day
is best to go back and fine tune the shaping of the block with a small
planer and sandpaper. Some more adventurous shapers might use a Disc Sander
to shape the block if the grain is varied. Now go ahead and glass the board
normally.
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 10:43:13 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: Dom Hallatt
Organisation: Fluid High Kite boards
E-mail: info@fluidhigh.com
Comments: I want to put graphics on our boards that I have
designed on computer. Is the best way to do it to use decal tissue. If so
how do I print on it, do I screen print it on. Also I have to use two pack
paints because it goes underneath the top coat and the whole laminate and
top coat are two pack epoxy. can I top coat the decal on without having to
glass over it?
Ed:
Dom,
Decal tissue/rice paper if by far the most popular way to add your logo to
your boards. I guess you could silk screen the decal but I'm not sure. If
printing, you must first do tests on a small piece of foam/glass to ensure
the ink dries properly and won't bleed. If you choose to put the decal
over your glass job (underneath is the best) it is prudent to set a 4oz
patch over the top of the decal to ensure that you don't burn through the
decal when sanding the board. A finish coat alone it not enough (except
MAYBE if you give it several coats and then hand sand that part when
sanding the whole surfboard...). In the early days the Industry used
waterproof Decals that were stuck to the finished board, and maybe a
professional Printing firm will quote you on some of those. They are used
on winscreens,bumper stickers etc. these days.
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 14:22:14 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: CHRIS GRAHAM
Organisation: THE ADRENALINE JUNKIES
E-mail: BIFF976FXS@USA.NET
Comments: I'm trying to find Clarkfoam or another similar
company to procure foam blanks. I'm a first time shaper so any advice
would be appreciated. Thanks
Ed:
Chris, If you are in the US try www.foamez.com or Bruce Jones Surfboards.
Many Surfboard manufacturers may sell to you direct so call around.
By the way, ask for 'factory seconds' as they are considerably cheaper and
good to learn with.
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000
Full Name: Spencer Kellogg
Organisation: Spence Surfboards
E-mail: kellogg@west.net
Comments: To whom it may concern,
I have recently been contracted to shape a copy of a Bing "Pipeliner".
Some pictures and extrapolation have revealed the basic planshape. I
haven't located any of that model in the area. Would you have any ideas
regarding the rocker. Any information or suggestions would be greatly
appreciated. Thank you.
Spencer Kellogg
Ed:
Hi Spence,
Thanks for checkin' INSIDE SURFIN.
I am not familiar with the Bing Model you mention, although it sounds like
it might be from the '60's.
At that time there wasn't as much thought on rocker shapes as today. Colour
Design was a big part of making your boards look good for the market. The
glass jobs were usually Volan and the boards were heavier(which helped
smoother surfing). The fins were thick foils which helped stabilise the
board, and were set pretty close to the tail. The 'rocker' is what came
with the blank, so to speak, for many shapers. Tail kick/rocker was very
popular because that helped nose riding! The blanks today are different.
They are a lot closer to the finished shape, which saves a lot of foam but
makes many 'replicas' invalid.
>From the boards that I recall from that time, the rocker was pretty evenly
distributed through the length of the board like a banana ( nose kick
wasn't around yet), and was used in conjunction with a rolled bottom on
many boards ( before V bottoms came out).
Without the original blanks to shape from, I would go for a board that
worked as the first priority (after all, it's your reputation), so I guess
that depends where it's goimg to be ridden? I hope this helps.. get back in
touch if you like.
Good Luck!
Chris
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000
Full Name: Steve
Organisation:
E-mail: surfinsc@hotmail.com
Comments: I am slowly getting into the world of surfboard
shaping and I have found the normal blanks from Clark Foam are too
expensive for the beginning shaper. I do make mistakes and I dont want to
trash anymore $100 blanks. I visited a surfshop who said there are
factory second blanks that cost only a fraction of the price. I was just
wondering if there is such a thing and if so where do I call or go to get
some more information on them. I was hoping to get some to practice on.
Ed:
Steve,
There is such a thing as factory 'second' blanks. Ring the major blank
manufactuers first as to when they usually have stock, and if you choose
carefully you can get a first class blank for about 1/3 to 1/2 discount.
Everyone should seek these blanks out, but it pays to be there at the
factory to choose your own. Blanks are 'second' for a reason, and sometimes
this reason is very minute.
a) When choosing a 'second' blank you should first ask why the blank was a
second.
b) If the stringer is slightly crooked in the centre that's fine. But not
if the stringer is broken, or offset into the blank itself.
c) Also look for soft patches of foam. These will usually occur at the back
of the blank underneath, and sometimes onto rails. Can you cut this area
out without losing surfboard length/width ? Soft foam areas areas are a
no-no to work with (press your thumb into the foam to test) although one
/two soft blanks will give you valuable shaping experience.
d)If a blank is a second because it has one hole(or more)in the foam.,
that's usually ok. Shape the board as if the hole doesn't exist, and then
before glassing, fill the hole with slow setting,white lam. resin/qcell.
Airbrush a design over it before glassing and you won't notice that your
new board was made from a second at all!
Bear in mind that foam manufacturers don't guarantee 'second' blanks, but
all in all it's still a good deal for your first 20 test shapes!
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000
Full Name: Steve Orin
Organisation:
E-mail: steveo@yahoo.com
Comments: Great site you got goin here! It's so helpfull to
read all the advice. I am planning to shape a board that measures; 6' in
length, 16" nose, 22" width, 15" round-pin tail and 2 1/2" thick with a
single fin. I am 6'1" and weigh 170 lbs and I plan to ride this board in
1' to 4' waves on the South shore of Oahu. I wanted to find out how far
from the tail should I put the single fin? And what size fin should I
use? I have been surfing for about 7 years and prefer a little loser
ride. Thanks for the help and keep up the good work!
Ed:
Steve,
The further foreward you set your fin from the tail, the tighter the arc
will be in a turn. I suggest that you use a sliding,fin box to trial this
distance with a handful of different size fins ( borrow a couple...). There
is no hard and fast rule for the fin distance from tail as surfboard width
and thickness play a part, and if ever one gains experience in boardmaking
it is in this area that it counts! Try looking at your board from a
distance(maybe 10 yards)from a side elevation. View your thickest point and
tail rocker... Flex also will affect your performance as much as
positioning, so don't trial all completely stiff fins.
Personally, I would have thought 6' was a short board for you (and 16" is a
wide nose).
My new board is 7'1" x 18 1/2" with a 101/2" nose, and I weigh about
170lbs. I like getting into waves early.....
Full Name: Eva Slowik
Organisation:
E-mail: eva.slowik@chickmail.com
ED: Hey Eva,
Thanks for the pic!
From: "Diego Galmarini"
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000
OK i like more info about the machine, if i cane buy? or if i cane
only buy a board, from here Argentina Diego design@terranet.com.ar
Ed:
Diego,I have forwarded your enquiry to John Gillis ( htsurf@ozemail.com.au)
who has a Computer Aided Shaping Machine which we all want to work with!
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000
Full Name: Frank Williams
Organisation: My Garage
E-mail: thesensuoussurfer2@hotmail.com
Comments: I have made myself a retro fish style surfboard. I
went to school in SD and hung at the Cliffs for a few years. I took some
measurements off some original Lis fishes and filed them. I pulled the
file out and shaped and glassed the board and started to set the fins on
the board and noticed I had neglected one aspect of the measurements. Fin
angle. I measured everything, made fin templates and then neglected to
note fin placement. (I have no other excuse save for it was the 70ísÖÖ.)
When I set the fins on using a standard tri fin style angle it doesnít
look right with those long keel fins. I hate moving fins and would like to
get this right the first time around. If you have any idea about the
angles, toes, distance from tail and proximity to rail I would appreciate
it. Thanx.
Ed:
The info I have on the Steve Lis Fish is for a 5'5" kneeboard and the fin
is 5" deep by 9" long at the base. Is this what you have? The back of the
side Fin finishes about 1" behind the middle of the swallow tail from the
look of it, and is 1/2" over from the point of the swallowtail towards the
rail. The trailing edge is 5" from the back of the swallow point and is
towed in towards the centre of the stringer. If what you are doing doesn't
look right, go with your instinct instead. Line the board's fin up from a
surfboard side elevation view, and when you think you have it right in
realation to the whole shape, measure the other fin to match. I would keep
the same tri fin tilt. Good luck!
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:49 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: Rob Mark
Organisation: None
E-mail: redjello@hotmail.com
Comments: Hello, I have a two part question for you.
1) I am interested in shaping a retro-shortboard that has a single fin box
with two FCS side fins. I want to be able to ride my board as a single
fin but switch to a twin fin when it gets small. Do you have any advice
on fin placement?
2) Have you heard of a transitional shortboard ridden by Joel Tudor called
the "Good Karma Model?" If you know anything about this board, like
length, width, thickness, etc. I'd love to hear from you.
Thank you very much and keep up the good work!
Aloha,
>Rob
Ed:
1) You don't mention how long your 'retro' board is? When fitting this fin
set up, move your centre fin approx.1/3 foreward from the back of the box
before setting the box, to give yourself latitude to adjust it both ways
(he further foreward the fin, the tighter the arc in a turn). From that
position choose to set your side fins, preferably as a tri configuration to
be safe. If you can choose a side fin system that slides as well, all the
better. A twin fin is a different board altogether, with more V and toe
in to compensate for the lack of centre fin, and I don't suggest you
compromise your single fin to try and do 'everything'. If it then works as
a Twin fin as well.......cool!
2)
No, I don't know it. I don't read many Surf Mags these days, but perhaps
another reader can help you by email.
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 16:11:47 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: David
Organisation: none!
E-mail: dripley@microed.com.au
Comments: Great site! I am a 'backyarder'.I'm past the trial
and error stage,I have always glossed my boards
but am thinking of just sanding the hot coats on
some small wave boards to save weight.How much
will this affect durability/performance considering many shop sold boards
are now sanded
finish? Thanks,
David.
Ed:
David,
I spent all through the '60's working with the major Surfboard
Manufacturers in Australia/NZ both Pinlining, Colouring and Glossing the
orders. It needs a sealed, temperature controlled room to get it right but
the finished results are worth it! Not only does it present your surfboard
label in the best possible light, it impresses the customer if you can do a
good job, as well as adding to the resale value of the board. The very fact
that so many boards from the '60's have lasted this long should answer your
question about strength. If you lightly hand sand the finish coat you will
also make the board lighter again and a lot stronger as well. More board
makers should do this!
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000
Full Name: Dale Solomonson
Organisation: Solo Designs
E-mail: dalesolomonson@hotmail.com
Comments: For reference to the following see the latest issue
of Surfer`s Journal, Volume 9, No.2, Late Spring 2000, 8 page article and
photos, "Inflatable Dreams"... I am a lifelong surfer and have
designed/tested a multitude of wave-riding instruments such as
conventional surfboards as well as prone-ridden, knee and (in reference to
the above article) high-performance surfmats. Anyone who is curious about
the article, "Inflatable Dreams" or has questions concerning availablity
of these devices, please contact me via:
Thank You!!
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000
Full Name: Dave
Organisation:
E-mail: DCBruton@hotmail.com
Comments: I have a question about surfboard decals. In the
old days I remember them printed on rice paper or so I was told and then
later something else. What is the best kind of decal to apply? a water
slide decal or something else? I intend to laminate over the decal.
Ed:
Hi Dave,
If you intend to laminate over the decal, you will need to use the Rice
/Tissue type option (I'm not sure what printers call it...try and get a
sample from a board making shop). You must make sure if you are designing
your own stickers, that the colour/ink does not bleed. Test a coloured
decal with a piece of fibreglass/foam first.
Waterslide decals are good for car windows etc, or on top of the finished
board.
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000
Full Name: P.Cole
Organisation: Fat penguin 2000
E-mail: fatpenguin2000@hotmail.com
Comments: Good surfers like yourself can appreciate the need
for different shaped boards for different conditions.
The fact being that speed and surface area predominate performance
characteristics. So 3 or more boards are nesessary. What has been
described about the current surf board shape is that they are a
"planing water craft". Whereas the Fat Penguin is a "Fluid glider" or a
"hydro glider" fully fledged and flies in its own medium.
This means a surfboard can and now does fly in water. Which in surfing
terms means a surfer is capable of manuevers not possible with
conventional surf shapes. The Fat Penguin has roughly 30% more speed and
accelerates very fast so that in the fist 3 to 4 rides there is a coming
to grips stage where the rider has to compensate in reaction times.
Because of the effiecent nature of the shape, Fat Penguins even at high
speed are a fluid turning board very loose but very stable.
So what we are achieving is that one board performs in a variety of
conditions 1-3m.
Only 100 will be made in the year 2000 numbered and signed as advised by
some restorers and collectors.
This is the genuine artical "aquatic glider" if the term is still not
sticking in your head talk to an engineer. Or think of an areoplane.
Practicaly the same physics.
They are a complicated time consuming constuction which incorporates much
personal skill and expertise.
We also know that our board is 4 times stronger than current comercial styles.
There only 100 to made this year and belive me they attract attention
where ever they are.
regards T.E.
checkout the web site www.spacegroove.com/fatpenguin/
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000
Full Name: John von Buchwald
Organisation:
E-mail: johnnyv@seven.org
Comments: Could you define "v" and "concave" (single, double
or triple) What are they, and what are the purported benefits of each. I
am having my first custom board shaped as an advanced beginner and need to
know if or how to incorporate these features.
Ed:
For me, most of this concave stuff is to make a board LOOK like it goes
better, and because that is just one factor in making a board work I can't
tell you what will happen. Fin position, Rocker, Rail, Outline shape, and
how you put it all together is what's important. It is hard to beat a nice
simple board with the right amount of V which will raise the railine and
make a board easier to turn. Too much V will make a board slower.
Select a local shaper by testing one of his shapes (after all, where you
surf is important too), or by asking/riding your friends own boards. Good
Luck!
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000
Full Name: Eva Slowik
Organisation:
E-mail: eva.slowik@chickmail.com
Comments: Hi, my name's Eva I'm in year 12 and for my D&T
major work I'm painting a surfboard. I was
wondering if you could possibly answer some
questions for me and give me some advice.
What materials are best to draw the design onto
the surfboard (textas, spray paint??)?
Are there any specific brands that work the best?
Are there any tecniques which should be
followed?
What seals the finished design the best? (is
lacquer any good and if so what type??)?
Would you happen to know how surfboard logos
and designs are created on manufactured boards?
Thankyou for your time..hope to hear from you.
>From Eva.
Ed: Well, I managed to reply to Eva but I have lost it, and don't wish to
go into again right now. So if anyone is interested in this question you'll
have to write again ...
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000
From: "Gordon Sheppard"
Hello,
I'm a student at Plymouth Uni, England, studying for the surf science and
technology course. I would greatly appreciate any links to sites concerning
polyurethane blanks, as I am doing a piece of coursework on the suitability
of this material and looking at other alternatives.
Thanks for your time,
Luke Shep (LukeShep@excite.com)
Ed:
Hi Luke,
Thanks for checkin' INSIDE SURFIN. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.
There aren't any main Foam Manufacturers online in Austrlia yet that I know
but you could try www.foamez.com
www.homeblown.co.uk/
www.bamboosurfboards.com
>From my experience in developing Fin Systems I think I have had an insight
into what I think the future of Surfboard Design will be....
Moulded Plastic fins can utilise recyable Plastics, and Plastic can also be
modified to adapt differing Flex characteristics (which greatly affect
performance). Stiff fins for bigger waves, and flexier Fins for smaller
surf, to generate some speed from minimal wave power. It is not necessary
to have a lot of different Fin outlines, just different Fin flexes! Foils
must be full and positioning on the board is as crucial(if not more) than
fin outline.
A ready moulded Plastic board, with a choice of Flex (probably colour
coded) that doesn't need any further glassing, except screwing in the fin
set up sounds good to me....especially if it can be remoulded for my next
new board!
I hope this helps,
Good Luck!
Chris Beacham
INSIDE SURFIN
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000
Full Name: scott Housman
Organisation: cal poly san luis obispo
E-mail: shousman@calpoly.edu
Comments: I am in a class designing a facility and really
need to know the power consumption in amps, watts or horsepower in the
machines used for computer designing. please help or lead me someplace
else. thanks scott
Ed:
Hi Scott,
Email John Gillis who works with Computer Designing & Shaping Machines all
the time. The link is on the Computer Shaping article/Surfboard Design
Page. Either that or phone any major Surfboard manufacturer who machines
their boards.
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 01:09:21 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: Rafael Asevedo
Organisation:
E-mail: rafael2305@hotmail.com
Comments: Hi my name is Rafael and I'm brazilian. I would like
some info about tails: Squash X Swallow. If swallow makes the turns easier,
is it always the better choice for small waves ? So a swallow tail would
make the board too loose
in a bigger wave? Swallow for small waves, squash for medium and round pin
for bigger waves? I know it's pretty basic, but if 2 surfboards were
exactly the same but with different tales, one squash and other swallow, in
which way it would work different one from another? What's the best choice?
Ed:
Hi Rafael,
There are many different aspects of a board that contribute to it's
performance. While for many surfers the shape of the tail is the main
design feature, it is also the fin position that the tail permits that
greatly adds to the effect that a particular tail shape will have on a
design. Other considerations are tail rocker, rail line and V. I have not
worked with swallow tails for a long time, but I remember the V to be quite
prominent ( this can slow a board down), and the fin/s were set further
foreward as a result of it's shape. The further foreward that you set
your fin, the tighter the arc in a turn. While the swallow tail won't
tighten the arc by itself, can you see the point I'm making? Everything is
relative and an ideal shape will not be extreme in any direction, but will
have subtle features that WORK WITH EACH OTHER. The joy of board design is
that you can spend a lifetime combining different approaches to test their
results, and then start all over again to fit that board to certain surf
spots! For many years now I have made my own personal boards as round
pintails, and when I work on a new shape the outline is the least of my
decisions. To ride bigger waves (or any size for that matter) it is
important to have a proper fin foil for stability (single or tri fins
should be about twice as thick as most fins on the market nowadays), and it
is foolish to compromise this to save weight.
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000
From: "Grant Fry"
<4frys@surfside.net>
Chris: Hello there. I was referred to you by Carl Ackerman. I had a
question for John Carper regarding surfboards. Carl said that you might
help. Anyway, I was wondering how to avoid "heel dents" on the deck of a
longboard made of Clarkfoam. I get them on my boards,(they're not JC), just
after a few times of surfing. I have two layers of 6oz. glass on-deck atop
a Clarkfoam Superblue blank. Are there any secrets or techniques that can
be used during shaping or glassing? Also, how long should one wait for the
board to properly cure before riding it.
Thank you, Grant. 4frys@surfside.net
Hi Grant,
The lighter the foam you use in your blank the weaker the grade of foam is,
and this is probably the cause of many heel dents.You can ask for stronger
foam in your boards, although it will be slightly heavier. Perhaps a
staggered deck patch whereby it could be three/four layers of 6oz in the
worst areas would help, although it's too late to do anything on your
present board.
Dents can be minimised by first curing your board at least 5-7days in the
shade before riding it. Perhaps you can rub some thick wax onto your board
in the worst areas.
Everyone gets dents of some sort... it goes with the territory and so try
not to look at them!
hope this helps...
chris beacham
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000
Full Name: Markus Butzer
Organisation:
E-mail: Friedhelm.Butzer@t-online.de
Comments: Hi
Whoever's gonna read this:I'm an 19 yeared old guy from Germany.
I bought a deck last Summer in Hossegor, France.
I'd really like to know where my board does come from- it is a
Mac Millan one.Has anybody an idea who shaped this board.? If you know
the manufacterer, please email me!
so long, Markus
MESSAGE: The Morey Swizzle Model
AUTHOR: Swaylock
DATE: Friday, 10 March 2000, at 11:06 a.m.
OK. I'm sure many of you have had the chance to see where this is going
with a whole "design forum" of Surfer Magazine dedicated to Tom Morey's Swizzle
design. I think the whole thing is a little creepy.
Is Morey's goal a truly functional performance/cost model or a way to mass
market a cheap indestructable wave sliding tool? (Think Boogie Board). Tom's
innovations have all been directed towards the mass market - and apparently
the bigger the market the better. I really don't like the idea of legions of
people crowding the waves on boards that are super steep on the beginner
learning curve (read easy to learn on for those of you who forgot your
algebra).
If these sticks are indeed performance models that can "hang onto
the face of any wave and turn on a dime"...I need
to hear it from and independent source. Who's ridden one?What is it about a
boogie board rail that makes them better than a down or 50/50 rail? Is softer
better? And what about that rippely bottom - whats up with that?
So we have two issues...Are these performance sticks or boards for the mass
market?
Swaylock
From: "Dr. Bruce Gabrielson"
Chris,
Don't know if you have seen it or not, but an old surfing mate of mine, Ron
Taylor just put his web page on the net at:http://www.chariot.net.au/~rgtsm/
He is constantly going on trips all over AU.
http://www.chariot.net.au/~rgtsm/
Snake
Ed:
Thanks, Snake.
Hello friends, My name is Miguel. I'm an Spanish Surfer from Canary
Islands. I enjoy Surf very much. But now I'm getting older and I have a new
hobby that is taking surfing photos. I«m a good photographer and a good
swimmer. Unfortunately I don«t know where to find a good camera for
surfing phtography. Most of waterproof cameras in the market are not
autofocus what is very important when you are in the water. I
had CANON AS1 but it wasn«t so good and it brokes «cose of the pressure
and now it does not work anymore. Could any of you please give me a
recomendation? If you help me finding a good camera I promise you to send
free photos to your magazine. It is one of my dreams. My e-mail address
is:
e201325201@abonados.cplus.es
Thanks you so much! MIGUEL
Ed;
Hi Miguel, try the Surf Photo Link on the NEWS/VIEWS Page..OK?
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000
Full Name: Maxximiliano nerone
Organisation:
E-mail: maxidog@mailcity.com
Comments: First I want to say its one of the best pages I had
visited. I have a question. I shape about 40 boards, nobody show me how to
do it because I live in Venezuela, and where i live there is not much
surfing, anyway i want to know if there is some way to attach the fins? I
did it all the time copying others boards and watching the angle from the
nose of the boards, thanks for any informations, keep surfing!!!!
Ed:
Hi Maxximiliano,
It's cool that you are making yourself some boards in Venezuela. One day
you may be a big local Brand.....!
Putting fins on properly is a pretty detailed process, with plenty of more
detailed descriptions in US Surf books or on the Web if you look
further.....
You should allow plenty of time to work by using a slow mix of catalyst. Do
you have the right Polyester resin?
To begin make sure that you have cut and neatly prepared the glass
patches/rovings that you are going to use. The more prepared you are, the
better.
Also when you have finished kneeding the rovings along the base with your
fingers, and laid the 2-4 patches on either side, it is best to wait for
the resin to gell, and then take a sharp razor and carefully cut the
overhanging setting fibreglass while it is still soft.
If a fin begins to set while you are still working on it, you will have to
take it off immediately, clean up the area, and start again.
Don't work in the Sun unless the air temperature is in the '60's or lower.
Good luck!
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999
Hi there,
This is not a hoax or bs.
The pics are of an evolved design called principly a "HYDRO GLIDER".
Conventional shaped boards are in principle "planing hydro craft".
That means to a surfer who's come to grips with this board, and it takes
about 3 to 4 rides, will shred. The Fat Penguin's ability to go places
where conventional boards can't, will be seen in near future video
reference. Feedback has been our driving force and we value your ideas or
comments.
In the near future we also will be distrbuting info packs regarding details
of contacts business address mailing ETC.
Paul Cole Designer.
Ed:
Hi Paul,
Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you.
I will post you Design jpg somewhere soon, so stay tuned and keep in touch
about your ideas.
And so, if anyone else wishes to send in their Surfboard creation jpg.
..... go ahead and we'll post them all.
Full Name: Rick "Figgy" Figueroa
Organisation: Figgy Fin Co.
E-mail: figgyfins@hotmail.com
Comments: Hello Chris. Thank You for the kind words about my
old site. Now check the new site at http://www.
figgyfins.com/ on excite, lycos,webcrawler,alta
vista, goto.com search engines. I make some pretty
cool glass-on fins. For Steve Irvin also. Check
my surfboard co. Pacific Beach srfbrds. Thank you again Chris you have a
great website.
Full Name: laura kenny
Organisation:
E-mail: landr@alphalink.com.au
Comments: ok after reading some of those other queries this
one sounds pretty basic...as a 17 y/o chick>who's just starting out i need to know the
answer to this question which ive been too
embarrest to ask, what is the difference between
a short and long board? i understand the whole
malibu and mini mal thing but other than that
im confused. i got a 7' 6" board which my
boyfriend said "is a really long short board"
why isnt it just a long board???
help me please!!!!!!
thanks
laura
Ed:
Hi Laura,
Well, for some Surfers a 7' board is long and for others the same board is
too short!
Generally a short board is thought of as one that has a tri fin set up and
is about 6'2" - 6'10" long x 18 1/2"- 19 1/2" wide with a pointy Nose with
a kick, but I wouldn't limit your thinking to only these parameters. Where
you Surf is the main factor that dictates how long your 'short' board
should be, and longer boards are able to paddle into bigger waves easier.
A 'long' short board like your own is a good approach for you have enough
the size to 'refine' the shape/rails etc. without losing buoyancy.
Meanwhile a true long board could be about 8' - 10' long and it is wider,
bigger, and heavier all round. They are usually built for bigger, heavier
and wider Surfers these days, and usually have a Round Nose, Single Fin (
with a fin box), and old fashion retro designs from the '60's are
popular. Shapers can make a long board 'feel' shorter by shaping in more
V, tail rocker and outline curve. This is one reason why the boundaries are
so blurred these days....
From: "Lothlaen"
To: "chris beacham"
Subject: RE: Board Repair
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 15:56:09 +1100
Ed:
Hi Michelle,
I'm glad you liked our site...
Well, without seeing the dings it's hard to know exactly how to approach it
the best way. I have never used a syringe to 'inject' dings before, so I
can't comment on that. It is important though for resin to 'breathe' in the
open air so that it may cure quickly. It seems the problem may be your
colour match and that can only take a bit of practice to get right. If you
can't get a clean match, don't use that particular colour mix.
I suggest you use clear resin to fix the ding(especially on the scratches)
and worry about the colour later. Perhaps you can put a little tint in the
resin then, so it doesn't stand out too much. If you live near a boardmaker
ask if you can visit their factory because you would like to learn to fix
your dings. That will help you a great deal. Even though it hurts to see
your nice board dinged, you will no doubt get many more, so don't keep
looking at the dings!
If you want to work out the scratches, give me another call...
Good luck!
Chris
Thanks heaps.
There is only one board maker listed in the ACT (time to move!)
I will be doing a bit of travelling over xmas so will tackle it when I come
back.
Will be staying at Lorne (lucky me) to get back into the surf and do a bit
of work on the
off days- I am lucky enough to soon be the Aussie rep for Flexdex .
Have a great day..
Michelle
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 12:00:36 -0500 (EST)
Full Name: Lucy Cokes
Organisation: HomeBlown Surfblanks
E-mail: lucy.cokes@neutralize.com
Comments: Has anyone heard of an other company producing more
environmentally friendly surfboard foam than HomeBlown?
http://www.surfblanks.com
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 22:38:42 -0500 (EST)
Full Name: R. Douglas Brown Jr.
Organisation:
E-mail: Treysurfs2@prodigy.net
Comments: I had a board shaped for my soon to be 3 year old
son Trey. It is 5'X 16" X 2" basically a mini long board for him. I had
them only lay one layer of glass and my wife and I are going to create all
of the artwork. Some of our ideas are using his feet and hands painted
and applying them on the board. What is the best paint product to use.
The guys were telling me to use paint pens but can't give me a quality
brand name.
I did notice one e-mail you responded to concerning Acrylic Laquer based
paints, but that was prior to any glass being applied.
I would appreciate your advice,
Douglas
Ed:
Hi Douglas,
Experiment first with any paint pens, colours etc you may choose to use,
perhaps on an old piece of board/foam. You may use Acrylic Laquer after the
Glassing(and Sanding) on the surface of the unfinished board, but I suggest
a few layers of Clear laquer(or Finish Resin)be applied over the top of the
completed design to ensure that it stays for awhile. To paint Trey's feet,
I suggest outlining them on laid masking tape first, and then cut away the
footprints, leaving a neat masking taped stencil to spray/brush/pen in with
colour effects. I hope this helps..
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 08:06:24 -0500 (EST)
Full Name: Dave Jones
Organisation:
E-mail: sescfdjs@cornwall.ac.uk
Comments: hi, i'm researching surfboard design for college,
could you please send me any info you can?
cheers.
Ed:
Hi Dave,
Most of what we can help you with is already online......try checkin' all
our past mail.OK?
Good Luck!
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 13:46:35 -0500 (EST)
Full Name: Alexander Reed Cooper
Organisation: Fourth Street Surfboards
E-mail:
Comments: I really enjoy surfing boards from the seventies
and eighties.They are more unique and it's fun to learn the functions My
favorite kind of board is late eighties where it has little rocker and
more thickness throughout they throw harder more stable turns. I wanted to
shape one of these kinds and I was wondering what the dimentions of that
kind of board would be.
Ed:
Alexander, if you look at older Mags you will probably find a great choice
of varying dimensions for Surfboard ideas in various articles/ads.
The first priority is to find out where to buy the older style shape
Malibu Blanks. Widths are about 22" wide, so get ready for some new
templates!
Full Name: paul
Organisation:
E-mail: oldsurfer61@email.com
Comments: what kind of wood is the best to use for nose and
tail blocks on longboards?
Ed:
Ring up your blank supplier and ask them what they use for stringers. That
should give you some indication. Redwood is a good, strong, popular choice
for nose/tail blocks, although there are many different woods used together
sometimes for effect,rather than strength. Make sure the wood is cured
dry and there is no moisture in the timber before glassing if the weather
is damp.
Full Name: Adrian Cory
Organisation: N/A
E-mail: gcory@one.net.au
Comments: Yeah, i want to start shaping boards and glassing
in my backyard. I wanted to know where i buy all the equipment/materials
eg.blanks, resins, filler resins, fins etc.I have only ever shaped one
board and it was on a second blank, it had a far few holes in it. So i
need to know where to get some putty aswell.So if you could give me names
and prices i would be gratefull
Ed:
Hi Adrien,
I've answered this question a lot before.
I don't know your local area, but if you look in the Yellow Pages Phone
Book under Surfboard Supplies or Manufacturers you should find the
materials you need.
From: "GARY CORY"
To:
Subject: Surfing essentials
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:41:50 +1100
Thanx for putting up a gnarly site.
I was just wondering if you could give me some approximations on how much
resins, fins and tools are to start shaping, cost. I know how to
shape(seen someone), so i was just wondering if you could give me some
names or phone numbers on where i can get the essencials.
THANX
Hi Gary,
Thanks for checkin' INSIDE SURFIN...
I don't know where you live to suggest the closest place, but if you look
in the Yellow Pages under Surfboard Suppliers/Manufacturers, you should
find someone.
If you live in Sydney the best places would be SURFBLANKS or DION
CHEMICALS, both in Brookvale. In QLD try BURFORD BLANKS.
If you buy blanks ask for 'seconds' as they are cheaper and good to
practice with.
INSIDE SURFIN is presently reworking it's SURFIN SHOP to offer some
specialised Surfboard Design stuff, so check back soon, OK..
Good Luck!
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 19:17:05 -0500 (EST)
Full Name: mitch
Organisation:
E-mail: kailuaboy54@yahoo.com
Comments: Help! Is there anyone out there who has had any
experience riding, shaping, designing, etc. boards designed exclusively
around the "Star Fin" concept once originated by Cheyne Horan & Ben Lexan
back in the 80's? I'm interested in talking with anyone who could possibly
provide me with information on the subject. Aloha, Mitch
Full Name: koji makino
Organisation:
E-mail: km19@uow.edu.au
Comments: I'd like to knowÅ@more about fins for a fin box
system.Å@
thanks.
ED:
Hi Koji,
Well it would depend on what sought of box you have as to which would be
the most suitable fin choice. Most seem to fit the standard old Fins
Unlimited etc. guage. Although there are more choices available nowadays
they are usually not adjustable and are plastic moulded only, without the
range of the older boxes for customising. But newer boxes are smaller and
light. The SURFIN SYSTEM flanged insert system fin will also adapt to a
box, by sitting on top of it rather than inside. It uses the standard
screw/plate for fin movement/adjustment.
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 07:01:12 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: John Anderson
Organisation:
E-mail: burns@caribe.apana.org.au
Comments: Does that wide flange at the base of the fin cause
any drag or whistling.I am trying something new &
different & require some fins that can be screwed
in.I noticed an ad.in"Freesurf" of yours,offering
tri fin sets for $10.00 plus tax.Are these the
plastic type with a small flanged base?If so I
would be interested in a few sets.Hopefully many
sets in a month or so if my idea works as well as
it should.I cannot buy these of my local board
maker as he would be totally pissed when I become
a competitor to him real soon.
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 14:59:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: ryan-marco herholdt
Organisation:
E-mail: carey_ryan60@hotmail.com
Comments: howit guy's
great to find a web site helping backyard shapers .i have to date made 6
boards and inproving. my question is about the hot coat. what resin are
you using and what additives. at this stage i am coating the boards with
laminating resin and in turn with finishing resin. if it is wrong please
tell me.
thanx
ryan
Ed:
OK Ryan,
Let's say you are glassing one surfboard. First buy a gallon of laminating
resin. You will need to also purchase 1/4 pint of wax-in-styrene, and 1/4
pint of straight styrene(you won't need all of this but it's hard to buy
smaller amounts). Keep them sealed when not in use, and always clean your
hardiner glass in acetone after measuring.
Now allocate one pint of the laminating resin for the filler resin, and one
pint for the gloss.
Using a clean glass measuring container(drop it into the acetone first)
accurately measure and mix 20 mls of wax-in-styrene into the 2 x laminating
pints that you have allocated for your filler/finish coat. Stir well. Now
half of that is your filler coat pint to brush onto the laminating glass
job, and the other half is left to be further altered with the straight
styrene for your gloss coat. This second mix does not have to be as
accurate and possibly 3-5mls will suffice for the now filler resin pint to
be thinned into the gloss coat. Ideal room temperature is about 72
degrees. Use about 15 mls of catalyst if you are fairly experienced. Less
if not.
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 15:50:46 -0400 (EDT)
To: surfer@firehorse.com
From: insidesurfin@firehorse.com
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: Adam Stein
Organisation:
E-mail: sameric@bellsouth.net
Comments: I would like info on how/who to contact to design
graphics on surfboards.
Ed:
Adam,
I would suggest getting some of your sample work together and then either
photographing it to mail to Surfboard businesses in your area(look in the
yellow pages under surfboard manufacturers in phone book), or visiting them
direct with ideally a Surfboard already with a graphic on it. There is a
lot of good work already out there, so unless you are professional in both
quality and delivery it's best that you just practice on your friend's
boards until your 'opportunity ' arises'. If you are good, it will
come.....
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 22:41:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: jim murray
Organisation: Desperate Surfers Inc
E-mail: fingo@one.net.au
Comments: My local beach has been breaking pretty hard this
year and I for one have 2 broken boards to show for it. I live in NSW
about 4 hours Nth of Sydney. The local boardmakers are none too keen to
fix them because of the time and hassle involved.
I have got the materials to do the job (both 6 + 4oz cloth) but would
really appreciate some advice as to how to go about it. They are clean
breaks on a 9' mal and a 7'8'' mini mal. I reckon a bloke could make
himself a bit of money around here if he got good at it. And besides that
my wife is threatening no more boards if I break another! Help!
Jim
Ed:
Hi Jim,
Well, the bad news is that once a board breaks it won't and can't be the
same again, particularly if the break is near the centre of the board.
However, rather throw the halves away you may be able to rescue something
for some young kid that can't afford a new board.
Now remove as little flapping glass as you need to, before effecting an
initial join. This can be achieved by sharpening a couple of dowels(maybe
1/4" diameter and approx. 10" long). First mix up a small batch of fast
setting laminating resin which you can brush vigorously into the foam from
each broken end. Now with one dowel either side of the stringer (approx.
halfway to the rail) push the remaining half of the board onto it's
divorced partner. The dowel on this outer end should be sharper than the
other fit so that it does not push the dowel further back. Your object at
this stage is to get an accurately rockered join to work from. Maybe put
some plastic on the surface of a table to minimise mess, and after you have
made the fit, stand back a few feet to peruse the rail and check that the
bottom rocker retains it's smooth curve. Without this you will have no
repair!
Now wait until the next day if you need to, and go back to clening up the
join with an electric sander. Sand approx. 6"-1' either side of the join
back to the glass, so that you have now exposed about 1'-2' of raw foam on
the bottom(the important side). Using a slow laminating mix this time (you
may also use white pigment, Q-cell, or resin mixed with chopped up
fibreglass) to fill in the holes and imperfections. If need be, lay some
wide masking tape over the repair before it sets, so that there is no
unsightly bumps and rises when the the tape is removed after the set.
When you have completed this the board will be ready to be 'glassed' back
together. Tape off both areas on each piece back to the sanded extremity
and glass first with 6oz over the raw foam, and then overlay with perhaps
a 4oz cloth back to the tape. This will give you a staggered double layer
of glassing. Turn board over when this has set, and repeat procedure. Now
when you are satisfied that the join is as true to the original as
possible, sand back lightly, to prepare a filler build up coat. Leave
overnight. Now using 80-100 grit paper sand your board back into shape.
Wet and Dry it with water, and wax up!
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 09:33:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: darren king
Organisation:
E-mail: kongrrr@post.com
Comments: howdie,about 6 years ago ,i read in tracks magazine
of a manufacturer of wooden laminated boards in australia.any information
on his whereabouts much appreciated your wave my friend.
Ed:
Hi Darren,
I think that you are thinking about Bob McTavish's work in this area. I
don't Know if he is still doing this, although you could contact him from
the phone book in the Byron Bay/Lennox Head area. A site that may be of
interest and worth visiting is www.surftech.com
From: s_hosseini@sun.iust.ac.ir
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 22:39:04 -0816
To: surfer@firehorse.com
Subject: request for help...
Dear Sir,I am a graduated student who are researching on windsurf design
and its mathematical computations(lift and drag forces),if you can help me
please let me know,your contribution is highly appreciated. THANKS
-FARSHID-
Ed:
Farshid, read the DAT Design update on the Surfboard Page and contact John
Gillis direct for further info. Sails are out of my area but I'm sure they
have a bearing on performance too!
"daniel sanchez"
cbeacham@tig.com.au (chris beacham)
hi i recived your mail but i nid the email of clarkfoam and i didn´t
found the mail can you give me the mail of clarkfoam because i interested to
the planer /(140.00dlls) you talk to me.
thank´s
DANIEL
ED:
Hi Daniel,
The address for Clark Foam is
CLARK FOAM
1851 Sunkist Cir.,
Oxnard. CA 93033-3922
ph: 805 483 4229
Good luck!
INSIDE SURFIN
Full Name: Elmer Rivera
Organisation: Jeff Insurance
E-mail: erivera@jeffgroup.com
Comments: I have a client who is starting out making and
selling surfboards on the East coast. I can not
help him get insurance since none of my companies
will insure him. Can any one whether a
manufacturer or employee of Inside Surfin' please
let me know what insurance companies insure their
business so I may be able to direct my client to
them.
ED:
Hi Elmer,
Sorry, I can't help you with that one. Board makers are notoriously
difficult (and expensive)to insure. I suggest you tell him to ask around
local Board Makers/ Boat Builders/Fibreglass Factories for possible
Insurers. Also tell him to take care of his Acetone storage,as the fire
hazard assosciated with it is the main problem...
INSIDE SURFIN
Full Name: Arnold Levin
Organisation:
E-mail: surf1div1@2qnet.com
Comments: If you wouldn't mind I wanted to pick your brain
for suggestions. I'm in the market for
two boards, of which the primary board would be a board for lose California
mushburgers up to 1-1/2 times overhead(I'm just under 6') Currently my
gun(7-5") is like
a slug, and am looking for a board that would give me the looseness that I
once
experinced on a Fish 20 years ago. The problem is that I don't care for the
"funboard"
style, and want something either bouyant enough, or long enough without
sacrafising what
I'm capable of doing (full carving cut-backs). I weigh 190lbs, am
active(mountain bike
weekly) but only get out 1-2 times weekly depending on conditions. I also
would like to
know for durability if you use any epoxy, or other "shell". As far as a
core would like
feedback on these and other options( foam...EPS vs Clark). My buddy is
interested as
well, but doesn't care about durability since he buys new boards every 2
years. The
second board would be more of an replacment to my slug. This would be down
the road
based on what my experince is with the first shape. I don't want colors,
but have in the
past had volon put on all my boards, so durablity has always been a
criteria. The problem
is the weight sucks! What suggestions do you have? If you wouldn't mind,
please let me
know by the Friday, as my buddy and I are going to be making a decision by
this
weekend of who to visit.
Thanks,
Arnold
ED:
Hi Arnold,
A friend of mine that I make surfboards for has a similar situation as you.
I make him long boards(tri finx8'3" x 19") but I put a lot of tail rocker
in them, so that it is loose is smaller surf. It floats him well and he
gets into the waves early, so I guess that's what he(you?) needs. I suggest
trying out any sample surfboards first that the shaper may offer you(or
else ask!).Are they guaranteed against faults if the board is too light?
Instead of Volan, I put a 6oz standard on bottom, and a 6 oz on deck plus
deck patch.This seems to be strong enough.My pick for brand.. Try Mike
Hynson or Skip Frye(La Jolla area,USA) for a new longboard. Those guys are
great shapers... Good Luck!
Full Name: james fletcher
Organisation:
E-mail: jrfsurfs@aol.com
Comments: i would like to know where to find out where i can
find out some info on shaping machines here in the u.s. where to buy one
and how much they are?
ED:
Have you read the article on ComputerAided Shaping in the 'IS' design
page? John Gillis is presently updating the article and so check back
shortly. In the meantime I suggest you email John Gillis in Australia who
has just set up a client in Hawaii with a shaping machine (his email
address is at end of that article).
Full Name: Shane Britt
Organisation:
E-mail: sbritt9@hotmail.com
Comments: yes i want to know how much a blank is for a
surfboard and how much it would coast to make a 9'6 lond board could you
tell me how much each material cost thank you
ED:
Blank prices vary depending where you live, and my DION CHEMICALS Pricelist
from Sydney states a 9'6" long board blank costs Aust$101.32 retail price.
This would vary with quantity purchases. For surfers who are starting out,
I suggest going to the Foam factory and asking the availability/price of
reject blanks.. for the most part they are fine if carefully selected
(holes are OK,but not soft foam or really crooked stringer), and save a lot
of money. Good Luck!
Full Name: Teddy Cross
Organisation: nil
E-mail: tcross@aljan.com.au
Comments: just a quickeee , I am interested in designing my
own board from go to wo. As an individualist I am keen on alternative ways
of making a board, all be it cost effective. What I need is a few links or
some guidance wether it be wood, glass or whatever. I live in Australia and
have some artistic ability and am useful with the hands. Just want to make
my next surf machine for myself not to compete with a real board shaping
company. If you could point me in the right direction it would be much
appreciated.
regards ted x
ED:
Well Teddy,
Bookmark this site!
Full Name: noah tyler
Organisation: school
E-mail: noahtyler@girton.vic.edu.au
Comments: i am doing an rip on surfing and are stuck with
hardly any info. I am doing a research project on surf design and making a
surfboard
i would much apprciate it if you sent me some info
from noah
ED:
Hi Noah,
While we can't do your research projects for you, there are many,many sites
out there with info on all aspects of Surfing...if you are interested in
Board design,check out Backyard Designer in 'IS'. You could also watch the
Shaping/Glassing 101 tapes regarding building yourself a board! For
reading try www.legendarysurfers.com and www.surfermag.com
Full Name: Cesar Sanchez
Organisation:
E-mail: casanchez@lucent.com
Comments: First of all thank you for your great site and all
the information you have been sharing with us. I have been shaping
surfboard as a hobby for about two years now and have had lots of fun. I
would appreciate it if you could provide some info regarding concaves,
specifically about a single concave to double, Where do you start the
single? where does it end? How do you transition into the double and where
these two end??
Also if you can share some info about cutting the V into the blank, any
good techniques? and finally any info about reverse V (same questions as
above, where does it start, finish and how to go about cutting it into the
blank). Finally, any information about more literature regarding design
trends or shaping techniques??
Thank you very much in advance for your advice.
Cesar A. Sanchez
ED:
Hi Cesar,
Hmm...... well I'll try and broach some of these questions....
1) It is a long time since I worked with concaves and when I did the boards
were Single Fin, much thicker, about two feet longer, and from my
experience while they certainly had an effect on a board it was important
(as with ALL design concepts) to try and fit it into context with the rest
of the board. If you wish to concave a board do it slightly at first and
try to get a 'feel' for any difference in the surf before you go further.
Foam is ideal for this sought of experimentation and I guess that's why
someone did it in the first place! Firstly there are some design aspects
that must be put in place to ensure that the board works anyway. Shape a
nice even rocker through the blank so that there are no 'bugs' in that
area. Put the fins in the right spot. Retain buoyency in the shape by
keeping it relatively thick before you 'take away' some flotation by
carving out the concave. It does not need to be prominent to work, but make
sure that you don't fill it in again when you glass the board! Where does
it start/end? Well what sought of board have you shaped...A tri/twin/etc?
What 'looks' right? Remember your first priority is to make a board that
works, so play safe and start it at the widest point, tapering back to none
at the tail area where hopefully there is enough room to shape a bit of a V
in the rail line to make turning smoother.
I think most of the shapers who were experimenting with foreward V's have
gone back to this important design consideration. I always worked with
harder rails than usual with concaves to make any effect more pronounced,
but that would depend just as much on the waves you ride. Once again, foam
is great for this sought of experimentation. Single to Double Concave etc
are very subtle transitions that can only be sighted and worked on in the
shaping room board by board. Maybe try a complete flat bottom board with
concave.....?
B) While I haven't tried any, Foreward V's appear to me to be a 'try it and
see' approach, rather than a proven constant. It is important to get you
thickness distribution correct in this sought of design. If the back is a
flat bottom, but not too thick/thin in context with the front (try and get
it even to start with) a foreward V could have some effect, but as always
it's up to the surfer and how and where he surfs. Like the concave take it
easy... V's are important for shaping the rail line into the tail for
easier turning, but because this is not a consideration for foreward V take
that fact into account. Keep your foreward rails low.
C) Now most shapers use their own gut feeling as to how and why to shape
V's. Because of the risk of overkill I like to shape mine by hand
plane(rather than electric) and then use a long (maybe18" )block with corse
paper at first, with the blank turned on it's rail,so that I can sight the
railine that is being formed . I then 'sharpen' the centre stringer to
taste. This part doesn't need to be as prominent as the rail curve and some
good shapers tend to just roll this part. I hand shape the V at about 45
degrees to the stringer working from the stringer out to the rail, and
overcut more as I progressively move to the immediate tail area. To
improve your shaping buy more blanks! The crossfireproductions.com
'Shaping/Glassing 101' tapes are also a compulsory insight. Hope
this helps....
>Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 03:45:31 -0400 (EDT)
>To: surfer@firehorse.com
>From: insidesurfin@firehorse.com
>Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
>
>X-Loop-Detect: 1
>
>Full Name: greg betts
>Organisation:
>E-mail: gbetts@alpher.net.au
>Comments: if I'm spraying on a blank prior to glassing-what
>type of paint do I use to avoid any reactions.
>
>EOF
>
Full Name: greg betts
Organisation:
E-mail: gbetts@alpher.net.au
Comments: if I'm spraying on a blank prior to glassing-what
type of paint do I use to avoid any reactions.
ED:
Greg,
Acrylic Laquer is popular with pros, although I suggest you trial any
paints/colours on a spare piece of foam/glass first. I believe there are
also some good waterbased colours out there. Ask at a supply shop.
Laminating resin can also be used, but if you choose to spray rather than
brush or squeege it on, you will need to thin out the resin with acetone
first. This will enable the resin to pass through the nozzle, and then it
evaporates back out when it's on the board. This technique will need a
little practice first...
When purchasing colour, you must also allow for thinners, and maybe one or
two extra colours to mix. eg. If you use yellow, get a red so that your
colour options can be widened. In spraying, practice makes perfect.Hold
the spray gun upright,away from the board and don't overspray. Try and
think out your design before you start.
>Full Name: Kristina Dickison
>Organisation:
>E-mail: nzkris@hotmail.com
>Comments: Hi I am trying to find the E-mail address or
>contact phone number for MC Surfboards. If you can Help me please E-mail
>me. Thank you for all your help.
>Kris
>
>EOF
Hi Kristina,
You could look for Maurice Cole Surfboards in the Victorian(?) phone book.
If this isn't correct I suggest you try Bruce Channon at www.surfinfo.com.au
That is an Australian Surf Directory site.
Good Luck!
regards,
Chris Beacham
Full Name: Kendall Elkins
Organisation:
E-mail: kelkins@reninet.com
Comments: A while back I saw an article where Gary Linden
glued together bands of foam cut away from the
rails to make a new blank. Can you tell me the
best way to go about this?
ED:
Hi Kendall,
While it may be possible to glue together rail offcuts to make a blank, it
would hardly be worth the effort for the results. The offcuts usually have
poor foam quality, and the labour necessary to glue the blank would
certainly make the end result more costly, and without the quality foam
needed for a new shape. You would also need 5-6 special clamps to make the
offcut joins, being careful that when tightening, that you retain uniform
pressure on each clamp throughout the process so that the stringer is not
crooked.
However, I have in the past used wider blanks(around 22") to shape a
narrow board ( around 16-17" wide) from. The resulting offcuts I took from
the MIDDLE of the blank, before re glueing the blank with a new stringer in
the centre. I already had the clamps to make up the extra blank,so when I
had more offcuts it was worthwhile at the time. You can join offcuts
other than the centre with just white laminating resin to make up the blank
width. Balsa is a good wood to uitilise as a wide centre stringer(maybe
6-8" worth) to help make up the width for your 'new' blank.
The best thing to do when you start out shaping is to buy 'second' blanks
from the Foam factory. These are cheaper, and In most cases are entirely
suitable as long as the foam is not too soft. If a blank is a 'second' just
because it may have a hole or two, that's OK because you can fill the
hole/s during the glassing process.
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 18:38:51 -0400 (EDT)
To: surfer@firehorse.com
From: insidesurfin@firehorse.com
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: Ronnie Cummings
Organisation:
E-mail: vegaskr@aol.com
Comments: I'm looking into shaping my own board and read
somewhere that a sanding screen is used to shape
the rails. Is this true and if so why. Thanks for
the help
Ronnie
ED:
Hi Ronnie,
Yes, a sanding screen is used to fine tune the rails after they have been
originally formed by sanding block/surform. Because of it's shape, it is
adaptable to rails and is used to finish off the rail and rail line(that
shadow that forms where the top rail meets the bottom rail). The screen
must held at the edges and be used carefully so as not to make the rail
too soft, or too hard. It is not hard to use with practise, and older
screens should be kept and re-used, usually after rail shaping with the new
corser ones. Good Luck!!
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 17:21:02 -0400 (EDT)
To: surfer@firehorse.com
From: insidesurfin@firehorse.com
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: Ron Hill
Organisation: recreational surfer
E-mail: rrh@jump.com
Comments: What can you tell me about wood veneer vs. woven
glass as an alternative board skin?
ED:
Hi Ron,
I haven't made any wood veneer boards, so I don't have an opinion at the
moment. While they look great, there could be problems with repairs,
although I would ask for some sought of guarantee if I was to buy a new
one. I also feel that they would work differently in the water and would
ask to try any sample board first before going any further. If you wish to
make your own, you will need to learn the process. There is a video
available from Tom Sullivan: tsullivan@pacificcoast.net and also worth
a look is SURFTECH Surfboards www.surftech.com
Hope this helps....
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 09:53:59 -0400 (EDT)
To: surfer@firehorse.com
From: insidesurfin@firehorse.com
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: Billy Wood
Organisation: BS24, Japan
E-mail: bell24@gte.net
Comments: Dear Chris,
Any thoughts on computer aided shaping? What direction do you think this
will take in the future?
Billy Wood
ED:
Hi Billie,
While I personally haven't as yet used a computer to shape any surfboards ,
I certainly feel that they are a valid way to form the thicknesses and
rockers of raw blanks. They save time and are more accurate than shaping by
hand,to ensure that long bottom curves are true. They are also convenient
to compare various shapes measurements after they have been ridden, to
consider any further changes in a design.
However, I feel that machines alone are not a substitute for a good shaper
who must also consider fin placement and surf conditions for the design's
eventual shape. I also think that many boards break because a machine may
have planed a blank down too far on the stringer(which will weaken a
board), to try to get to the 'finished ' shape too soon.
If and when the Surf Industry makes a change to more suitable manufacturing
materials to make surfboards, the machine will probably be at the front of
production,with most of the successful manufacturers utilizing them.
To: Tom J Sullivan
From: cbeacham@tig.com.au (chris beacham)
Subject: Re: Composite board making video
Victoria Video Productions and myself Tom Sullivan have produced a
vacuum
bag board building video that is now available. This video is aimed at
those people who wish to build their own composite sailboard or surf board.
A light weight vacuum bagged composite board is now the standard by which
all boards are compared to. Many years of expensive trail and error are no
longer nessessary to gain the knowledge shown and explained only in this
video to produce a quality board. The unique infomation shown in the video
is of great value and is sought by experienced and novice board builders
alike.
Our video has had some very good windsurfing magazine revues such as
Windsport(Canada), Windtracks(USA), Surf(GR), Windsurf and Boards(UK)
success in both world wide internet sales and with a few fiberglass supply
shops. For more information about the video check
http://www.pacificcoast.net/~gwilliams/Toms.html
for internet reviews on the video check
http://www.vtt.fi/tte/staff/immo/Building.html
http://www.viser.net/~anthwind/
http://www.viser.net/~anthwind/Repair/Epoxy_Repair/epoxy_repair.html
If you are interested about our dealer package and promotional materials
please contact myself or gwilliams@pacificcoast.net
If you are not interested but know whose who might be let them or us know.
Thanks for your time.
To: surfer@firehorse.com
From: insidesurfin@firehorse.com
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: Phil jones
Organisation: quierie
E-mail: skunk3535@hotmail.com
Comments: Hi My name is phil,
I live in Werribee, Victoria, am I am very interested in a career in board
shaping hopefully somewhere around Torquay or down that way, at the moment
I am doing a Tafe course through my highschool which enables me to learn a
trade, but also get my year ten pass, at the moment I am learning
Carpentry, so I hope my experience from that will help me get a job as a
board shaper. so if anybody can help me on who to contact in order to find
out the needs in a career in shaping.
Phil
ED:
Hi Phil,
Surfboard shaping is very competetive , and the best shaper is not
necessarily the busiest. Like most products these days it takes a lot of
expensive marketing to build a Brand name. And even then that's no
guarantee of success. If you just want to shape for your friends it can
be a lot of fun...for awhile. Try visiting board manufacturers and see what
opportunities there are for yourself in the future. If you have never
worked in a big factory the experience can be invaluable. Start at the
bottom,it's the only way to learn everything. After all if you must learn,
use someone else's blanks! However, I believe that there will be a change
in materials for surfboard production in the future, and only larger
companies will be able to adapt. The plastics used will need to be
recyclable, and shaping (as now) will be computer aided. Glassing processes
also will change. While this may still be a little ways off, Carpentry is
still a much better long term career choice. After all you mightn't even
live near the surf in ten years time! There are also a couple of
tapes,SHAPING 101 & GLASSING 101 (that we distribute) that will give you
some great insights. Good Luck!
Full Name: Ronald Quade
Organisation: Quade Marketing Int'l
E-mail: quade_dds@hotmail.com
Comments: do you teach a class on learning to surf?
Ed:
Hi Ronald,
Sorry we don't, but if you try Corky Carroll from our links page or
www.surfcamp.com, they could help you. Good luck!
Full Name: barry schwartz
Organisation:
E-mail: shabaz@erols.com
Comments: mixed up.... i am 49 i am getting a long board.I
live in new jersey usa. no real big waves.i want 9'6" how wide not sure?
rocker 50/50 or 60/40 single fin classic style how do i fiqure this all out?
thank you barry
ED:
Hi Barry,
Thanks for checkin' INSIDE SURFIN....
The best way to select a 'new' board if you are starting ,is to go to your
local Surf shop and ask to test ride or hire any potential board that
you/salesman may be interested in. Many of us have tried different shapes
that we maybe didn't like, but understood more about surfboard design in
the process. If you don't like your board you can always buy/trade up for
another one later. Maybe pick out 2-3 boards for testing... . Do you have
any friend's boards you could try first? A 9'6" board will probably be
about 21-22" wide and that's fine. You need a board that will float you
comfortably, and various shape considerations can come later when you have
learnt to surf properly. Good luck.
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 16:40:47 +1000
To: cbeacham@tig.com.au
From: Unknown Species P/L
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Status: U
>X-Status:
>
>Full Name: brendon
>Organisation:
>E-mail: aggsk8trr@aol.com
>Comments: hey i am 16, and im just getting into surfing and i
>really like it. I wanted to know if you could send me any kind of free
>surfing magazines or posters, or stickers. If not i understand. Thanks
>for your time and patience. Please e-mail me back and tell me your
>results. if you can i will send you my adress. thank you
>
>EOF
>
To: surfer@firehorse.com
From: insidesurfin@firehorse.com
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_GUESTBOOK
Full Name: ken dule
Organisation: not much
E-mail: dont know
Comments: dude im a really narly dude man wanna catch some
waves later dude
i been to the pipeline and i showed them whos
king of the waves man. seeya later dudes, ROCK ON
To: Mallie Clark
From: cbeacham@tig.com.au (chris beacham)
Subject: Re: surfboard design
Cc:
Bcc:
X-Attachments:
>Chris,
>
>I'm a Mechanical Engineering student at Georgia Tech and am interested in
>a career in surfboard design. I've been a surfer for almost 10 years, and
>would love to find a job that related to it!!
>I'm just wondering if you know what the design industry is like, and if
>there is a need for an engineer. I would specialize in "fluid flow".
>I think there are many innovations to come and I want to be a part of it.
>
>My main concern is that experience and not a degree will get the job.
>Is this true?
>Can you help with some ideas about what to do next, who to contact?
>
>Thanks,
>Mallie
Hi Mallie,
Thanks for checkin' INSIDE SURFIN...
When I started making surfboards for a living back in the early '60's,
there weren't that many places one could buy a surfboard, and so it was
pretty necessary for me. Those times have changed and the market is
saturated with board makers,which are mostly brands just copying what the
market trends are.To sell anything else would require a considerable
marketing budget. Even if your designs are accepted, what is to stop other
more established manufacturers copying you?? While the standard of design
varies, the industry is certainly competetive. It's a dubious career
choice, considering your present studies,which I strongly suggest you
finish first....
That said, if you are a surfer interested in design, there is nothing to
stop you buying some materials and learning to make boards for yourself and
friends as a hobby. But remember you don't have to make boards for a living
to Surf!
Yes it's true that a degree won't help your board design employment
opportunities. Virtually all design breakthroughs have been by working
board makers, who know their materials and techniques. 'Fluid flow' is
something that we all consider ( a wave flowing across a board is
different), and the working shaper's idea of it changes, even though many
designs are recycled from different eras. What makes a board good varies
from break to break, fin set ups, weight etc.
The best way to introduce yourself to the industry is
shape/glass/sand/polish a few boards, then visit your local manufacturer
and show him your work.Quality is very important. You might be able to get
a job then and there, but I wouldn't consider it a life time choice. New
materials will change the industry in the future (probably moulded re
cyclable plastics) and when this happens many present board makers will be
out of a job!
You may contact me any time you like re: design options/advice and I would
be happy to give you any input and possible direction.
Good luck!!
Chris Beacham
INSIDE SURFIN
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:36:07 -0400 (EDT)
Full Name: MATT NOVAK
Organisation:
E-mail: penny@sdcoe.k12.ca.us
Comments: I currently ride a 6'4" squash tailed shortboard.
I have been thinking of buying a longboard for the first time. I am 5-10
and weigh 170 pounds. I would like a board that is still very
manueverable but thatI can still ride the nose on. I was thinking
somewhere in the 8'5" range with a tri fin setup (larger fin in middle, 2
smaller side fins) and as light weight as possible. Any suggestions would
be appreciated
ED:
Hi Matt,
Thanks for checkin' INSIDE SURFIN...
If you are not used to riding a longboard, I suggest you test ride/hire 2-3
before ordering one. That way you will have an idea of what to expect, and
whether 8'5" is a good length for you. It sounds OK to me, but remember a
manueverable board is not necessarily one that will be a good noserider as
well. Older boards from the '60's were shaped from thicker and heavier
blanks,and were Single Fin with a bit of tail rocker, which helped the
board noseride.
Also, if you want to be a good noserider here's a tip....always stall the
board first(almost to a stop), before scrambling to the front.
I hope this helps....Good Luck
Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 17:23:52 +110
Full Name: Luke Fuglestveit
Organisation: J.A.W.S.
E-mail: luke_fuglestveit@hotmail.com
Comments: Dude I was wonderin if you could give me a little
info. I'm a Canadian inlander that's heading over to Australia for a year
in July, Our summer, your winter. I'll be staying at "Wongabri, or Moss
Vale or something like that and I think it's an hour from the surf, but I
was wondering if you knew where the closest best surf was, like a point
break. I've never surfed either, just body boarded back in the day. So I
was also wonderin if you could recomend a teacher (good price), not a
crapy instructor but affordible. I'm 20 and 6'1 and about 190lbs so I was
also wonderin what kind of board to get, I know Australia is like the surf
kingdom so I'll just buy used one to start off with. Any information that
I could get my hands on to help me on my surfing would kick ass. So that
about sums it up. I'd appreciate it f you could help me out
ED:
Hi Luke,
Yes Moss Vale is inland a little, and is south west of Sydney (which is
probably the main Surf centre in Australia) so that's where I suggest you
head to purchase your equipment/lessons. You could look in the Yellow Pages
Phone Book,or check out www.surfinfo.com.au I think the Northern Beaches
is where to check out first both for shops and waves. If you read a recent
post in our Guestbook, you will see an answer to another surfer's query re:
surfboard, because his weight/details are similar to your own.
While there is surf all along the coast from Moss Vale(both North and
South), most surfers head up to the area around the Queensland border,
maybe 600 miles North for the nice beaches and point break,quality waves.
You will probably meet many surfers like yourself in those areas. Good
luck, and I hope you have a good time over here! Let me know if you need
any more info.
regards,
Chris Beacham
INSIDE SURFIN
X-Sender: usp@bix.thehub.com.au (Unverified)
Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:02:37 +1000
To: cbeacham@tig.com.au
From: Unknown Species
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Status: U
Full Name: Chris Franco
Organisation: MYSELF INC.
E-mail: CJCFranco@AOL.com
Comments: I'm going to Costa Rica soon , I already have a 6'0
fish and a 9'2 high performance longboard, but I want something for bigger
waves. I am 180 lbs and 6'0 . I heard that a round pintail works realy
well but I saw a 6'6 HIC that had a swallow tail that I was told works
better. The only thing I know I want is a board between 6'6 and 6'8, turns
real well and has some meat to so it floats me really well. What overall
shape, thickness, etc. do I need.
EOF
From: "Ross McCallum"
Organization: NRE
To: cbeacham@tig.com.au (chris beacham)
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:45:25 +11:00
G'day Chris
I thought I'd let you know the final result.
I'm very pleased with it although I did get a couple of bubbles and small
bugs in the top coat. However the proof was in the waves.
Having never surfed before it took a while to get used to it's
behaviour, but now there's no stopping us.( I've got two teenage boys
who I now have to fight with to get a turn)
We've just spent three weeks in East Gippsland and Eden and given it a
thorough work out. It certainly generated some interest from other
surfers as well.
Thanks again for your help. I'm positive we would not have got such a
good result without your input. I may even get hold of another old
board and do the same thing. It was very rewarding.
Ross
Ross McCallum
Human Resources
Gippsland Region
Ph (056) 242 245
Date:4 December, 1998
Full Name: Randy Richandburg
Organisation: Surfboard Designer
E-mail: cohens5@juno.com
Comments: What would be the best fins to buy if you wanted a
bigger spray?
ED:
Hi Randy,
Thanks for checkin' out INSIDE SURFIN.
There are several factors that can generate a bigger spray.. Hold that cut
back a fraction later and go that little bit further to the top of the wave
to generate more speed before making your move, a wider tail board will
push more water to spray up(look at Boogies and they don't even have
fins!),Flexy side fins can help to throw that board around,( keep the
centre fin stiff on tri set ups though).But in the same way that a louder
Amp does not necessarily make better music a bigger spray is not
necessarily better Surfing. The better a Surfer you become the easier to
make more positive moves, including generating more spray if that's what
you want to do.
But probably most of all, a bigger spray is made by Photographers with
cameras from a slightly elevated position and using a fast shutter speed!
OK??
Subject: Re: Balsa surfboard renovation.
Date: 4 December,1998
Hi Chris
I've finally got all the supplies I need and I've decided to stick
with the original fin concept, although I need to make a new one.
I have been bombarded with info from people I've bought gear from, so
I've got a fair idea what the process is although I still have a few
questions and any tips you can give me would be great.
With the wooden fin, is it better to fix it on to the board first or
do the mat first ?
How far do you overlap the mat from top to bottom and vice versa ?
Last time you asked me what the weather is like here. I imagine that
is to do with the amount of catalyst I use. At the moment the weather
is like a yoyo. Yesterday it was cold and 18 and tomorrow it is going
to be 32. I am taking 7 weeks leave from next monday, so if there is
an ideal day I can make use of it.
Please let me know of anything else I need to be wary of
Thanks
Ross
ED:
Hi Ross,
Looks like you're ready. OK!
Firstly, fit the Fin after you have glassed the board but before you filler
coat it. If you wish to make your self a fin similar to the old fin you
will need to take your old fin to a timber yard to get the same wood. I
could suggest Marine Ply. It's strong and you can use the layers as a guide
when foiling.During the 60's most wooden fins had a glass 'bead' down the
centre so you could foil the edges properly.This consisted of two thin
layers of marine ply sandwiching say 10 layers of fibreglass lay up.Now
when using wooden fins there can be a problem with moisture, so you must
make sure that it is leak proof.Foil the fin completely before fitting and
glass up a single layer on the fin to help prevent this occuring.Sand it
neatly and after perusing the results, you will know if you want to use it
or not! If white stains appear in the fin after glassing, it means you have
to sand them back out and glass fin sides again or it can spread. There are
some nice wooden fins on the market for Fin boxes...?
I assume you are using silene cloth which makes any laps invisible...2" lap
should be enough if you can get it from your fibreglass. If not, use what
you have but cut it neatly all around.
Lastly, some days Pro glassers won't work at all if the weather is too
damp. Ideal temperature is around 70 degrees. If you can time your glass
job to set about 5 mins after you have finished you are doing good.That way
there is no time for bubbles etc. to start forming. Also the resin gets
thicker as the weather is colder which makes it harder to work. Buy a
thermometer. It is invaluable to judge the best time to work. I like to
start around 8 in the morning so the day will warm up during the glass job.
Never start a glass job late in the day! Buy a small heater if you need to
raise the temperature in your glass room, but keep it FAR away from the
acetone.( that last tip about the heater/ acetone is the most important one
I have given on this Page).Also, cover up your acetone when you are not
using it, to prevent it evaporating to nothing!
Lastly, as in most things to do with board making, preparation is
everything. Mentally walk yourself through the whole glassing process
before starting. Is everything at hand to do the job properly??
Go for it!!
Full Name: Timothy Poplin
Organisation: surfer
E-mail: turbopop1@juno.com
Comments: would like some info and prices of some longboard
blanks
ED: If you are in USA I'd suggest you try the Phone book under Surfboard
Suppliers/Manufacturers or maybe try www.brucejones.com
Full Name: fran wojnar
Organisation:
E-mail: fjwojnar@aol.com
Comments: where can i find a six inch fin for a G&S star
system fin box? not the screw in
ED: Hi Fran,
I think those Fins are hard to get! Try G&S and see what they say. There
has been a bit of interest in the Surfin Systems Insert system for boards
with that set up, because the inserts can be fitted outside the box area,
yet still utilise the screw/plate adaption in the box if needed. Check it
out at www.firehorse.com.au/insidesurfin in Board Design section. If you
are interested get back to me and I'll give you the address of the US
distributor.
hope this helps..
Chris Beacham
Full Name: Ross McCallum
Organisation:
E-mail: mccallumr@dri.agvic.gov.au
Comments: I have an old board approx 8'which is stripped back
to a wooden base.
I want to re-glass and restore it.
I have no experience in this what so ever.
Where do I start?
Chris
Thanks for your help.
It's a balsa board made by Gordon Woods of Sydney.
It's very plain ( no paintwork or the like) with the makers name in
an oval label at the tail end.
It has a round nose and a single rather long fin. I'm not sure
whether the fin is original as it has a fair bit of patching up
around it. The fin is ply.
The skin on the board has large holes all over especially around the
nose and it is loose in places. I'd say it needs to be totally
removed.
It's totally dry as it hasn't been used for years and is hanging on
the garage wall out of any moisture.
It's 9'4" long.
As I said I haven't done anything like this before, but I'm pretty
handy and I wouldn't mind giving this a go, especially to keep the
costs down.
However,if it's a classic I wouldn't want to stuff it up either.
Thanks again
Ross
Ross McCallum
Human Resources
Gippsland Region
Ph (056) 242 245
Full Name: Garrett Micheal King
Organisation: School
E-mail: Rusty3838@mailexcite.com
Comments: Where would I be able to buy some foam blanks????
I reely like the site
ED:Hi Garret,
I'm not sure where you live so it's hard to suggest where to get some
blanks. Ring up any board builders.....
Good Luck,
Chris Beacham
INSIDE SURFIN
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the info. I think i might modernise it and
take on your suggestion and put in a Fin Box. How much are they worth?
Any suggestions where I can get all the Resin/Catalyst etc.
Does the glass mat come in different grades?
>There is a local guy that does fibreglass work where i can probably
pick up the mat, resin etc.
I'll start fixing the dings. What happens next?
thanks
Ross
ED: Hi Ross,
There are many soughts of resin/fibreglass but only a few are suitable for
board making. Only buy resin etc. from a board maker! Are there any close
to you.
It is a big job glassing a board and most top shapers can't do it. You will
need tools and mixing containers as well as the materials. If you haven't
done it before I suggest you get a book about it,(or Glassing 101 is
better; $34.95plus $5.00 postage) to grasp the whole process before you
begin. I can help you glass the board but if you make any mistakes I will
not be able to undo them, and it will cost you more money as well.What is
the temperature where you are? Does it rain a lot?
Dion Chemicals or Surfblanks in Brookvale, Sydney can sell you everything
you need to glass the board(they supply the trade). I will be putting a kit
together to sell with the boardmaking videos. I expect it will cost about
$250.00. plus tools/freight.
Make sure you measure the width of your board when buying 4oz silene
fibreglass, to make sure it is wide enough, with at least 3-4 inches extra
width for overlapping the glass.For length I would ask for 6 inches extra
length top & bottom.
If you want me to put a kit together for you, I will but remember because
of the cost of brushes,squeege etc it will probably cost an extra $40.00 or
so.Let me know...
Take it nice and careful and we'll get it right.
Chris
Full Name: Sunvalley Surf and Sports
Organisation: Surf shop
E-mail: sunvaley@adinet.com.uy
Comments: We liked very much your site and we'll be glad if
you have time to visit our site at:
http://www.sunvalleysurf.com
Thank you very much,Daniel.
Full Name: robert bruce
Organisation: laughin' assassin
E-mail: RKJoker@Worldnet.ATT.Net
Comments: How do you get the fin to stick in the board
really strong?
B/DESIGNER:
Hi Robert,
Fins are an important part of a board's performance, and strength is
imperative. Firstly you must understand that most of the wave pressure on a
Fin is sideways. Because of it's foil there is virtually no stress going
straight ahead,but the second you turn,the lateral force on the fin is
exerted. Rovings are the first line of defence against breakage and must be
fitted properly,if you choose a fixed fin arrangement. After cutting the
rovings to a suitable length(overlap about 1/2 inch each end of the fin)
for each side of the fin you must wet them out with laminating resin using
a small brush. The more rovings you use, the stronger the setting.Having
eased the wet rovings into place at the base of the fin,set 2-3 staggered
layers of 6oz fibreglass patches.Ease out the air bubbles with your
fingers, pushing out from the centre.Do not make a fast resin mix...this
will give you more time to work.The more glass/rovings you use the stronger
the setting! For removable fins the SURFIN SYSTEMS insert system was
designed not to break, and has incorporated the 'rovings'in the base
flange. There is no drag and the System is both strong and easy to fit. A
Fin Box is also a strong removable System, although there is considerable
overkill in a Box System.These are not as easy to fit as an Insert System
but they are strong! Also check out other mail here and Glassing 101
Video. Good Luck!
Full Name: Jono Eriksen
Organisation: Johnneo Designs
E-mail: johneo@iu.net
Comments: First of all, thanks for this great site and all the
free expertise.
I have been tinkering with shaping & glassing balsa boards for about two
years now. I'd really like to get licensed but there's always some hitch.
The occupational license app. will not allow "manufacturing" in my area. (I
have a shaping bay set up in my garage) I really feel that shaping is an
art & should be considered designing and not manufacturing. Am I right? I
need some advice to get moving. Thanks.
B/Designer:
Thanks for your mail,
ono. Many Surfers could look on Shaping as an Art,
for the finished Surfboard lends itself to that category. However, as a
Shaper one should look at the actual priciples behind improving a design
when shaping a board. That is thickness,rocker, etc. Fin set up is crucial.
These areas should never be considered with 'artistic' motives. The colour
of the board is different! As for Surfboard making not being
manufacturing,well.......
Full Name: Anthony Boesen
Organisation: None
>E-mail: anthwind@viser.net
Comments: Board Building Links for Surfboards and Sailboards.
http://www.viser.net/~anthwind/
Comprehensive Listing. Enjoy.
Full Name: Stephan Fritz
Organisation:
E-mail: fritzfam@wantree.com.au
Comments: Hi thanks for helping. I do a bit of backyard board
building and have problems with sand throughs along the cut edge of the
wrapped glass. I know this stems from bad glassing technique but I need
some help. I wet-out and wrap the overhanging glass as the last part of
the process. By this time the glass is getting tacky and there are usually
a few threads which come loose and create a bumpy edge. I wet out the
glass by squeegeeing across a line of resin from the rail onto the
vertical overhang - this never seems to work very well and dry patches are
left.
Can you give me some tips to achieve a professional finish?
Thanks
Stephan.
B/DESIGNER:
Hi Stephan,
I'm not sure if your problem is Glassing or Sanding, but first we'll try
Glassing. You do not need to leave the rails last in the Glassing
process.It also sounds like you may be using too much catalyst for your
experience. Slow your mixes down and so you have more time to work,so when
you have glassed the layer you have enough time to go around touching it
up.Cut those loose threads BEFORE you wrap them. You may also use an old
surform blade( keep it clean in acetone when you are not using it) to
scrape the overlap a bit flusher before you brush on the hot coat.Use
masking tape to keep your hot coats from overflowing onto the deck(that
only makes more work). Now brush on your hot coat being generous on the
laps , knowing that you need a solid resin base to begin Sanding.
Now,try using finer discs to Sand the board. If you are using 80 grit try
100 instead. This will be a bit slower, but when you are better you can use
coarser discs without fear of damaging your boards.Also ALWAYS leave a
board to cure overnight before Sanding. You can hand rub it with wet and
dry paper when you have finished(300-400 grit) and this should give you a
finish that you can Surf. If you want to learn to Colour Design/Finishcoat
that it a whole new Subject that I won't cover here, but remember
facilities are all important for that stage.There must be NO dust or breeze.
Full Name: Robert Bruce
Organisation: Laughin' Assassin
E-mail: RKJoker@Worldnet.ATT.Net
Comments: I wanna know who & where
distributes these so I can stick these bad boys on the boards I make.
Please send some info.
B/Designer:
Hi Robert,
If you are talking about SURFIN SYSTEMS fins. They are available in
Australia direct from Surfin Systems. Box 141 Avalon. NSW 2107. ph: 02 9918
6363 fax: 02 9973 2206
They work great!!
Full Name: barry farrelly
Organisation: student
E-mail: happy@tinet.ie
Comments: i am shaping my own boards but i live in ireland do
you know of any company's that would ship to ireland
B/Designer:
Hi Barry,
I'd suggest trying the UK Yellow Pages Phone Book. Look under Surfboard
Manufacturers. Other than that , there are many companies on the Net links
on INSIDE SURFIN to email. Good Luck!
>>Full Name: JOE GARRRITY
>>Organisation: CYCLE XPRESS
>>E-mail: AUCTIONS@CYCLEXPRESS.COM
>>Comments: NEED A NEW BOARD.I'M 5'11, 206 LBS. NOW RIDING 6'4
>>DON'T WANT LONG BOARD THINKING OF HYBRID BOARD ABOUT
>>8'5. NOT A SHREDDER, BUT STILL LIKE QUICK TURNS &
>>I'TS GETTING TO BE A TOUGH PADDLE AT 39 WITH A 6'4
>>BOARD. HEY I'M IN GREAT SHAPE I JUST WANT MORE WAVES. I READY FOR THE NEW
>>BOARD
>>BUT DON'T WANT TO JUMP AT SOMTHING I WON'T LIKE
>>
>>ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED
>>
>>EOF
>>
Hi Joe,
Thanks for checkin' INSIDE SURFIN. I don't know where or how long you have
been Surfing, but 6'4" seems pretty small to me, considering your weight.
I personally would be looking at something around 7'2"-7'8"', if you don't
want a long board.(8'5" is a LOT longer than 6'4") Get a bit of extra tail
rocker in it to make it easier to turn.Possibly something with a single fin
box, that can also accept a tri fin set up. Try and test ride some
secondhand boards in this size range to get a feel for what floats best
before you order. If you like any secondhand one, buy it instead!
Good luck,
Chris
INSIDE SURFIN
Full Name: sean harkins
Organisation:
E-mail: scannybear@aol.com
Comments: how can I get some info on K@ surfing?, I cant find
any?
ED:
Hi Sean,
There is a video on the Contest, featuring all the Surfers, Waves &
Wipeouts!! It costs US$14.95 and you may order it from
www.surfline.com/k2video/k2video.htm Enjoy.
>
>Full Name: John Stiles
>Organisation: Graphic Stiles
>E-mail: johnstiles@usa.net
>Comments: Hey, I am a surfer & airbrush artist currently
>living in NC. I am searching for contacts to surf board manufacturers in
>this region who may be in need of a skilled airbrush artist for custom
>work. Please help me if you can. Thanks
>John Stiles
>Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 22:13:54 -0400
>To: surfer@firehorse.com
>From: insidesurfin@firehorse.com
>Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
>
>Full Name: John Wayne Cusack
>Organisation: Mossman Pest Control
>E-mail: johnwayne@internetnorth.com.au
>Comments: I want to know where I can get a Nat Young design
>made, specifically - 6'10" double ender tri fin "boat" thickness (2-2.5")
>with chined, down turned rails. The year was 1973. Thai erotic transfers
>on the deck.
Subject: Re: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 20:26:58 -0400
To: surf_bear@yahoo.com
Subject: INSIDE_SURFIN_BACKYARD
Full Name: George Marsh
Organisation:
E-mail: surf_bear@yahoo.com
Comments: I am thinking of purchasing a new surfboard, in
particular, I am considering a Patagonia, short board.
The only thing I know about them is that they are made of an epoxy
composite that is supposed to have a greater longevity and overall
strength than a traditional fiberglass board.
I have not seen one in the water and have know idea what to expect in the
way of performance.
Has anyone done any kind of write up of their boards? If so, what's the
verdict? Or, in the alternative, should Patagonia just stick to
mountaineering gear and equipment?
I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
BACKYARD DESIGNER
Hi George, I haven't seen any of these boards so I can't give you a first
hand opinion, but I would certainly consider buying one. Epoxy boards are
definitely stronger than conventional boards.Many manufacturers are more
interested in giving boards away to gain beach presence,than spending time
to trial new
processes, so any company that does, deserves some consideration. Check
out the fins, are they removable? Fin repairs could be a problem if not.
Lastly,show you are a genuine buyer and insist on riding one. Demo,
second-hand, anything. You'll know if you want one! Good luck!!
Full Name: Paul Tayar
Organisation: N/A
E-mail: mtayar@zeta.org.au
Comments: I'm currently working on an innovative board for
my Year 12 Major work and I would like to purchase
a set of Surfin System fins to go with my design.
Any info and advice would be appreciated please
send to
15 Fitzroy St Abbotsford 2046 Sydney NSW
ED: Thanks for the interest Paul, I'll send you some info.
Full Name: Sean Flynn
Organisation:
E-mail: hjimi@hotmail.com
Comments: i want to start my own shop and i don't know how to
paint my boards or where to get the paint.please drop me a line or
something.
thanks,
sean
B/DESIGNER:
Firstly Sean, DON"T use paint. I don't know whether you are talking
airbrushing or colour panels/pinlines? Read the other posts here, and if
you still have questions get back to me.
Oh, and about the shop.....it's not as easy as it looks. Get some advice
before you do anything!
Full Name: James Holler
Organisation: member/Stormriders surf club, ERAU daytona beach.
E-mail: Mor4me@rocketmail.com
Comments: i know it seems like im showin my kook here but i
would really like to get into shaping.
Ive been surfing for about 2 yrs now and can take just about anything
given in relation to the conditions.
What i would like to know is how i would go about getting a blank, ive
seen a few sites before but i cant seem to find them now
ANy helpful info would be greatly appreciated and i appreciate your time.
Later and thanks. James
B/DESIGNER:
Hi James, The best thing to do would be to look in the Yellow pages of your
local phone book for Surfboard makers/Blank/Fibreglass Suppliers, and
choose the one closest to you to call and check prices on all materials.If
one of them does not sell everything they can probably tell you who else
does. I hope this answers the question for the other surfers who have
mailed in as well.
Full Name: James Dunn
Organisation: N/A
E-mail: oslos @andrews-kurth.com
Comments: I am interested in learning about the Six Channel
Thruster Design by Allan Byrne. I have a few questions that I hope you
will be able to help me with, they are:
B/DESIGNER:
James, I haven't done a lot of experimentation with Channels myself so if
there are any Shapers out there who would like to respond here we'd like to
hear from you. That said I will try and answer your queries the best I can.
To understand a Channel set up better, picture the water dragging ACROSS
your board as the wave draws. I can't get behind the idea that a piece of
plastic can re-direct the force of a wave along down it, simply because it
is shaped to look like it would.
1)Should the channels be parallel to the stringer or angled towards, or away
from, the nose?
Answer: Parallel for sure.
2)Should the center channels taper out before exitin g the tail or follow
through like the ones at the rail, or is this dictated by the the tail
shape?
A: I personally would taper them all out, but it's a matter of trying it. I
would feel uncomfortable with breaking that all important rail line.
3)To what extent should the channels extend from the tail towards the
center of the board?
A: Look at your board from say twenty feet away at a side angle to check
the rocker. At the apex of it is where I would take the channel/s to.
4)How deep should the channels actually cut into the hull?
A: I would suggest about 1/4 inch, certainly no more than 1/2 inch, when
the board is sanded.
5)Is it better to place a wing, or 'flyer', in the template at the point(s)
in the rail where the channels exit- to avoid tracking and loosen up the
board?
A: Try both on two similar boards, but a flyer seems to be popular.
6)Is there a particular board size range (length)that this design tends to
excel in?
A: If you can get your short board feeling good, keep going up..
7)Is it necessary to modify or alter the tail rocker when incorporating
this deign?
A: I would put a shade more tail rocker in.
8)Is it requisite to foil the tail differently to compensate for added
rigidity ( loss of flex ) associated with channels?
A:I shouldn't think so but you can use Flexy side fins.
9) Is it necessary to alter the fin placement, and if so,to what extent?
A: Fit the channels to your normal preferred fin placement.
Thank you for your time. If you can direct me to a source of literature on
this sort of subject matter I would greatly appreciate that as well.
James, Send me your address and I will mail you some info on Lew Stedman's
POWER RIDGE design. It is 2/4 strips of plastic that stick to the bottom of
your board to create a 'spill over' effect that will suprise you with the
difference it can make. There is a review elsewhere on this site that I
suggest you read.
The Ridges can be cut to length and positions may be experimented with to
find the board's 'sweet' spot. For me they are a far more advanced concept
than channels, and far less work!! Hope this advice helps.
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 22:17:34 -0400
Full Name: ERROL PAVO
Organisation: EWA BEACH SURFBOARDS, HI
E-mail: SRFBRDS4U@AOL.COM
Comments: CHRIS,
I'D LIKE TO LEARN MORE ON AIR BRUSHING AND DESIGN. TYPE OF
PAINTING TECHNIQUES. TYPE OF PAINTS USED. ALSO LAMINATE LOGOS HOW DO I
MAKE THOSE. I KNOW RICE PAPER IS USED, BUT HOW IS THE LOGO PRINTED ON.
THANKS
ERROL
B/DESIGNER:
Errol, Good Airbrushing is usually done by GOOD Airbrushers, they have the
taste,the equipment and the tools. However, with a little practice you
should be able to come up with something nice if you have a bit of colour
sense. Don't go for anything elaborate to start with. Now, I have seen
some neat little Airspray cans that are attached to a Glass jar that holds
the colour. I don't know what they are called in the US but a Hardware
store should know what you are talking about. Acrylic Laquer is a good
choice of colour base, then you will need Clear Laquer and Thinners. For a
limited range of Colours I would choose Yellow, Red ,then White and Blue.
These are the colours where you can get good combinations when you mix. eg.
Straight Yellow, then a little Red makes Orange, then a little more Red
makes a Darker Orange then Straight Red. Now it is important to use the
Lightest Colours first, adding a little bit each time of the Darker Colour.
That way you don't have to keep cleaning your Spray Can. Clear will thin
out the colour so it will go further. Add thinner touch by touch to get the
right consistency to actually go through the nozzle . Once you get the
right mix, save leftovers in a sealed jar for future use. Try and stay away
from Home handy man Spray Cans, although they can be used as a last resort.
Just test everthing on a spare block of foam/board first to make sure it
works with fibreglass/resin.
Now tape off your desired design with masking tape, making sure there is
plenty of overlapping tape, Spray will go over everthing in sight, so even
tape newspaper etc. to cover raw white shaped blank.
Now, when the mix is going thru the nozzle at a smooth rate, NOT
spluttering(if this happens add more thinner) you can think about spraying
your valuable Surfboard. The main trick is to spray lightly and with
smooth flowing movements, starting OFF the board itself while the spray is
on, moving it across to the Design, the finishing OFF the board when you
have completed the design area. You may have to come back to touch up
different patches before you remove the tape, when the first run is dry.
Try not to overspray! As in all Board Making, preparation is important so
take your time setting up all the mixes etc. before you start. When you
have finished swish some thinner through the Spraygun and turn it upside
down and spray for one final clean up.
Incidentally, it is possible to Spray Colour Laminating resin, if you first
mix it with acetone to thin it out enough. Once it's through the nozzle
onto your board, the acetone evaporates leaving the nice colour job. Test
catalyst levels first for this sought of work. The acetone will slow the
mix so measure accordingly.
LOGOS can be handrawn on Ricepaper, but as always try a sample under some
resin/glass first before actually going ahead and spending time on a nice
one for your board. If the colours bleed get other inks. If you are
considering making more than a handful of Boards get a Professional Sticker
Printer to do Artwork/Printing for you. OK? Good Luck!
Full Name: Rob Lockyear
Organisation: School time shaper
E-mail: rl@kingsbruton.sch.somerset.uk
Comments: I'm a small time shaper
B/DESIGNER:
We are all small time Shapers Rob, the way we take others' designs
shamelessly and call them our own, but that's the way it is.......
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 21:14:03 +0000
From: Dick Clarke
Organization: Envirotecture Projects Pty Limited
Subject: Fin design & other myths
G'day you blokes.
I want to talk about your Surfin Systems fin doodahs. I am a kneeboarder
who started trying some new ideas about 20 years ago. Geez I feel old
when I hear that. So time has marched on, but I still enjoy a bit of
radical design development. I have never ridden slabs, hate the horrible
things. I like boards that REALLY turn - you know, point that rail to
China and head straight back up the face...so the board and rider move
as one, and move a lot.
Now I know most of you stand-up comics are just a little bigoted when it
comes to us kneelos, but it would serve you well to remember the bloke
who virtually started the short board revolution - none other than
comrade George Greenough - was a kneelo like me. I don't pretend to be
as innovative as me mate GG, but I want you to understand that certain
information herein is very hot stuff, and has been for 20 years. So hot
that no-one has dared try it (to my knowledge) save a few of my old
customers. They melted on impact. So my secret has been safe. Until now.
I entrust it to you because I know you respect the integrity of a fellow
designer and would never let his cats out of their bags. Apart from
that, you probably think I'm a looney anyway. You are not alone. I have
a wife and children...how do you think they feel?
But I digress...
The basis for my boards is found in the crossing of 2 curves:
1. flotation + waterline length = paddling speed & straight line speed
/stability
2. the length of the board (L), the distance from the centre of
effort/mass of the rider to the centre of lateral resistance (mr)
multiplied by the available turning force exerted by the rider (t)
divided by the lateral resistance (R) = ease of turning, you know -
looseness. It should be noted that the centre of lateral resistance is a
combination of several factors, and due to the
